Has anyone here had an experience with this business? If so, share your stories. I'd love to hear them.

These guys tried to take me for a ride, in fact, it was a whole rollercoaster with a racist twist in the middle. All I needed was a positive terminal clamp, these guys were gonna charge me for that 175$ before GST, replace my 12V $465 before GST, call-out+labour.

They also meddled with my HV battery to stop my car from starting. They said the car needed to be towed to their garage to see what the issue it, in reality they unlocked the orange fuse connector thingy themselves.

Edit: holy f*** guys I found their no cowboys page. This is their real page, nothing but horror stories.

https://www.nocowboys.co.nz/businesses/247-mobile-mechanics?allow-rating=1&rating-authenticated=158619

Hi all,

I'm installing two fuse tap adapters into my car's fuse box under the passenger side glove box for installing a hardwire kit for a dashcam.

After I install the adapters i'm no longer able to insert the fuse box cover.

Anyone know anyway around this so I can still put on the cover, or should i just leave it as it is and hope no ones foot rubs against the fuses?

Attached some photos of the fuse box with and w/o the cover, and the location of it from passenger side point of view,

I’ve had this question for a long time.

I drive a 2003 ford courier XL, and from my understanding the XLXs/XLTs came with AC.

My panel is missing the AC switch, and my mate who has a miata has the same control panel with the switch so I know where it goes.

What is stopping me from ripping the full assembly from a XLX and installing it in my XL?

Obviously need a compressor, piping, etc etc but if I was really bored and had the time and coin to do it, is it possible? And what parts exactly would I need? The heater works, and it blows air from the outside just not AC cold

Hi everybody. I have a 2008 Nissan Note that failed its WOF today for the first time in my ownership. I’ve been told that it needs some work done and have received a quote for a substantial sum (for me, as someone on the disability benefit). My good ol’ car advisor (AKA Dad) passed away about a year ago and I don’t know anybody else with any knowledge so I typed “Reddit car advice NZ” into Google and here I am! I’m also a young woman without car expertise so I worry I can be hoodwinked a little 😢 I’d appreciate any advice IMMENSELY!

So, the rejection note on the WOF sheet is “CJ - front top shock mount shaft/nuts rusted - flaky”. When I was shown the area where work needed to be done I asked what specifically needed fixing and if that was all, and the technical advisor said it was the mount and the nut/bolt. He pointed to a flat round disc and the very rusted nut. He said the nut was so rusted it would probably be impossible to remove without the mount coming too.

The quote I’ve just been emailed from AMI Motorhub lists:

Front shock absorber mount - 2 x $90.28 ($180.56)
Left front shock absorber - 1 x $299.00
Right front shock absorber - 1 x $288.00
Wheel alignment - 1 x $90.00
Labour - 3 x $138.00 ($414.00)
GST $165.86
TOTAL - $1271.56

I’m a little confused as I don’t think I was told the shock absorbers needing replacing? Obviously I know absolutely nothing about parts or various names etc. I’ve taken some photos (although I’m not really sure what will be helpful) so maybe they’ll be useful!

I would be so appreciative of any advice or knowledge. Thank you!

Hi all,

I made a free Total Cost of Ownership calculator called Stuck In A RUC that works out what a vehicle actually costs to run in NZ.

The reason is that crazy fuel prices + the economy shitting the bed wrecked our family's budget, and I wanted to know what each of our options actually costs per km, not just at the pump. Doing a direct comparison between Petrol, Diesel, EV, and PHEV running costs is a real headache. When I showed some mates, they found it pretty handy too.

What it does:

• Calculates annual cost & cost-per-km taking into account fuel/electricity prices, RUC rates. You can add in servicing, tyres etc too
• Compares different vehicle types side-by-side to help you figure out if switching vehicles actually saves you money.

I just wanted to share this with people who might find it useful. I'm independent and built this to solve my own problem. I have no association with any automotive or finance brands.

The bit I'd really like this sub to pull apart is the "Add running costs" estimates, because you lot know what this stuff actually costs.

Would love any feedback!

https://stuckinaruc.nz

Edit: I got approval from the mods so hopefully the filter won't take this down..

Rare cars currently for sale at Auckland dealers

I've been collecting the cars listed on about 400 NZ dealer websites, around 40,000 vehicles right now. About 17,000 of them are at Auckland dealers, so I went looking for the rarest ones. Most of these are the only one of their kind for sale at any NZ dealer.

• The headliner is a 1990 Skyline GT-R NISMO for $279,990. The dealer says it's #470 of the 560 built, and it has 53,742 km. Another Auckland yard has a regular 1990 R32 GT-R for $99,000, so the NISMO badge is worth about $181,000.
• A 2017 HSV GTS 30th Anniversary with a 6-speed manual, $189,000. The dealer says it's build number 003 and one of 7 in this spec, with 14,232 km. Another dealer has an automatic one for $149,990, so the manual costs $39,010 more.
• Possibly the oldest Mini in NZ: a 1959 Morris Mini Minor, $34,990. The dealer quotes the UK 1959 Mini Register saying it was exported to NZ on 1 September 1959, six days after the Mini was launched. It's the only Mini from before 1970 at any NZ dealer.
• A 1952 Bentley Mark VI drophead coupé, $179,990. The body is by Park Ward, and the dealer says it's one of 57 built to that design. It was delivered new in London and has been in NZ since 1969. It's been cut $20,000 since late September.
• A 1948 Packard Custom Eight convertible, $169,990, with a straight-eight and 3,391 miles. There are only two Packards for sale in NZ. The other is a 1937 Super 8 for $269,990.
• The oldest car at an Auckland dealer is a 1937 Ford V8 coupe, $94,990. It's left-hand drive with the original flathead V8. Auckland has 19 of the 63 cars from before 1970 for sale in NZ.
• A G-Wagen ute: a 2019 Mercedes G 300 CDI Professional with a single cab and a tray, $159,990. The dealer calls it "the working man's G-Wagon". It's been cut twice, from $169,990.
• Every Morgan for sale in NZ is at one Auckland dealer. There are five, including the three-wheeled Super 3 from $95,000 plus options.
• The only Viper for sale in NZ: a 2013 Dodge Viper with an 8.4 litre V10, a 6-speed manual and 2,852 km, $209,990.
• 80s JDM: there's a 1984 Sprinter Trueno for $29,990. Sadly it's an AE85, the 1.5 carb one, not an AE86. The dealer is upfront about that. For the same $29,990 there's a 1983 Silvia RS Twin Cam, and there's a 1988 Supra 2.0 twin turbo manual for $39,999. Each one is the only car of its generation at an NZ dealer.
• Someone spent $240,000 on this one: a 2006 Holden Avalanche R8 with twin turbos and a claimed 1,000+ hp. The dealer says there are over $240,000 of receipts. It's for sale for $84,990.
• Listed as make "Other", model "Other": a Rhubarb Forged 1.8 Turbo, $59,990. It's a Caterham-style kit car with MX-5 running gear.
• A Lexus LM people mover costs $5 more than a Rolls-Royce Wraith ($219,995 vs $219,990). A brand new Toyota Coaster minibus ($162,990) costs more than a V10 Lamborghini Gallardo ($159,990). Two different Auckland dealers each have a Ferrari at exactly $129,990: a 1996 456 GTA and a 2003 360 Modena.
• Rare doesn't have to mean expensive. These are all the only one for sale at an NZ dealer:
  • a 1995 Mitsubishi FTO, $7,500
  • a 2017 Holden Cascada, Holden's convertible, $12,999
  • a 1995 Honda CR-X del Sol, $13,990
  • a 2002 Honda Torneo Euro R, manual, $19,975
• Supercars cluster in Auckland. At least 6 of the 9 McLarens and 4 of the 5 Lamborghinis for sale at NZ dealers are here. Both Rolls-Royces for sale in NZ are at the same Auckland dealer.

Hunting for something rare? Tell me what and I'll check whether any NZ dealer has one. And what's the rarest thing you've spotted on an Auckland car yard?

Disclosure: I found all this while building CarSpy, a free NZ site that collects dealer listings in one place and tracks price drops (https://www.carspy.co.nz/)

My car is a 2015 Suzuki SX4 S-Cross LTDHC, about 197,000 kms odometer reading.

I stupidly got in the way of a slow-moving fence post the other day which caused this damage to my car (shown in pictures). I had a look inside the hood alongside a professional at a car shop and there doesn't appear to be any internal damage or tire damage (only outer panel damage) and they're saying I'll need to replace all the damaged parts, the bumper, and the headlight (apparently this is because the connections to other parts of the body are broken). I'm so much not a car guy that I didn't even know that this was a Suzuki until today so I have no idea whether this assessment is accurate or not, could I please request some help from the much more knowledgeable gurus here?

Do you think the assessment that all the listed parts will need to be replaced is accurate? How much work do you think will need to be done to bring this up to minimum WOF standard (don't care about it looking good)? And do you think that the total repairs will be worth it given the expected market value of the car (5k-7k is my estimate)?

For what it's worth I've known all the owners of the car since it's been bought and they've all taken good care of it and the transmission and brake pads have been replaced recently so the personal value of the car to me is slightly higher than what I'd sell it for (despite the high mileage). I drove the car 10kms today with this damage and nothing felt off internally at all, the collision was only at a speed of about 2-4kms/hr.

I can get internal photos if needed.

Landcruiser Prado KZJ95 - doing a full front end overhaul and as part of that I'm fixing my AC system.

AC system issue - big fat hole in one of the pipes - killed condenser, seized AC compressor, specialist recommends replacing those + Receiver Dryer + Expansion Valve.

I asked him if I was missing anything and he said to make sure that I use good seals, I presume these are O-rings.

Now my questions:
1. Where do I go to find out which sizes of HNBR O rings I need on my vehicle
2. Should I even install them, by the time I fit all the components, will anything have dried out?
3. Should I leave certain components to the specialist to fit before they do the pressure test, flush and regas?

Thanks lads :)

Hi everyone,
I recently had the A/C blower motor replaced on my 2014 Nissan Note (E12) in Auckland and wanted to check whether I paid a fair price.
Aftermarket blower motor: NZ$300
Total charged: NZ$750
So labour and fitting came to about NZ$450.
The mechanic mentioned it was a difficult job due to the blower motor’s location.
For anyone who’s had this repair done (or mechanics familiar with the E12 Note):
Does NZ$750 total sound reasonable?
How many labour hours does this job usually take?
What would you expect to pay at an independent workshop in Auckland?
I’m just trying to understand whether this is a normal price or if I was overcharged.
Thanks in advance!

Can someone please explain it all to me and how I should go about it. I’m 20years old with two babies and we need a car and my only option is finance from a dealership I think. Please any advice would be helpful I’m trying not to stress out about this but it is quite stressful and intimidating to think about.

any recommended interior cleaner/detailer including the seats for a 2nd hand car bought from yard? also to remove the generic smell.

if DIY, any proven items you can suggest.

*Auckland based better around West

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I am needing to take my nearly 10 yo 130k km Ford Escape for a service. Ford says that it should be $515 on average.

The last few years it's worked out close to $2.2k

2 years ago, service was $1,2k, needed a new battery $1k

Last year, service was $1.5k and I needed $800 body work to pass wof (bodywork not done by same people).

The services done cover anything special (although every second year the cabin filter is like $90!).

I'm expecting same price this year as it will likely be tyres that need replacing.

The mechanic is good, but I feel a bit pricey. Am I crazy to expect anything lower. Any recommendations?

Would appreciate any recommendations for good, reasonable mechanic, south / east auckland.

Hi,

Last year I got badly scammed by a mechanic here.

I was advised to go and see someone in Woodville who is trustworthy but I can’t remember who that was because it was last year.

Does anyone know who to go to for full pre sale service and wof around here?

Hi,

Does anyone know there is equivalent carjam website in Japan? Basically I'm after a Japan import car. Just want to do due diligence on my side. I can see there are https://carcheck.jp/, and https://carvx.jp/. Has anyone used them before? How legit they are ?

Thanks

Hi all,

I am looking at buying a hybrid jap sedan, like the Toyota Sai, Lexus HS250H or 2013 Honda Accord Hybrid. Budget up to $15k.

Anything I should be mindful of with these models?

I know the Lexus had issues with piston rings but that was earlier manufacture dates than I am looking at.

The Sai and Lexus have uninspired ride quality compared to the Accord, but I'm not too fussed on ride quality since I am coming from a tin can Swift.

Some degenerate tried to steal my 2005 Toyota wagon the other day. The ignition is snapped in half. The immobiliser thwarted them. I can still start the car using a screwdriver while putting the key through the immobiliser loop.

Is this a WOF fail?

Hi, car making knocking noise while pushing brake while rolling in neutral. When the noise happens steering wheel moves. I've replaced mounts and has new control arms and bushes.

Any ideas where to look yet?

Hey just went into Bnt today to get some bits.

They have https://propass.co.nz which saved me a few bucks on my parts. Guess it’s like the Repco card thing.

Hi,

Last year I got badly scammed by a mechanic here.

I was advised to go and see someone in Woodville who is trustworthy but I can’t remember who that was because it was last year.

Does anyone know who to go to for full pre sale service and wof around here?

I currently drive a Toyota Highlander V6, I’m thinking about looking for something a lil cheaper to run.I don’t drive far but I do use it every day.I like having the 7 seats as we use my car as the family car when we go away as a family of 5, including 3 teenagers.I LOVE driving a big car so would probably want to stick to a SUV.I do like the look of the latest Outlanders, any recommendations?

Figured some people in this sub will have tried out car seat gap fillers like the one shown.

My questions are, how well do the generic ones fit? Are there car make and model specific ones you can get that fit better?

Looking at getting a decent DA Polisher, budget is under $300. Will be using it a couple times a year.

Currently looking at:

1. toolpro da 720w for $160( sometimes on sale at $120)

https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/toolpro-toolpro-240v-dual-action-polisher-150mm-720w/581559.html?cgid=SCN01010905

1. Maxshine m8Sv2 1000w from repco $247 on sale which I am leaning towards

https://www.repco.co.nz/car-care-panel/car-detailing/car-polisher/maxshine-m8s-dual-action-polisher-5-inch-m8s-v2/p/A6319915

Question- Can someone confirm if this is normal? On Mercedes e350d 2015 80k on clock. Though no problems - running fine with no performance issues and no error codes

I was carting some friends around today and I've just noticed my passenger door handle is very loose now. Is this just wear and tear or a rough bugger wrenching on the handle, any methods to stiffen? Or is this the way this handle is now?

2008 mazda 3