I’m a French designer recently graduated from Design Academy Eindhoven. A Room for Echoes is a collection of sculptural steel furniture inspired by the Neo-classical funerary architecture. The collection includes a bookcase, a rotating chair and a monumental desk, handmade in my Paris workshop. The project explores memory, permanence and mortality through sharp forms and a deep black, glossy finish.

Had a go at something new yesterday. I do lots of welding, have a forge, make knives, exhaust pipes, do body and chassis restoration on cars, make all sorts of things, but for my birthday I was gifted a craft afternoon for pewter and copper hand working.

It was a lovely afternoon, I was surrounded by retired old ladies nattering away and as an "Oh, young maaaan!" I of course flirted outrageously and had a bit of a giggle. Not my usual sort of thing but actually really enjoyed this.

Anyway, this is what I managed in an afternoon after some playing around with the tools and techniques and making gentle innuendo and non-serious flirtation with the old nanas... One of my test pieces for learning what the different hand tools do, and then what I made. I ran out lf time though and had to rush at the end and never finished, and I dont like how the eyes turned out. But I think this is something I can get good at.

So I wanted to try tig welding. I’m using spare exhaust parts to practice on. This is my first attempts. I’m looking to get any advice whatsoever on how to improve.

#8 Gas Cup, 20 CFH, 45 Amps
are the settings I used. What do I change?

I keep burning holes on the pipe.
Also I’d like to ask for large gaps, is it best to try and reduce it? Or is there a way to fill it without melting a hole? Say the gap is 4mm

Boss man has me trying to attach a Bobcat cutting edge to the bottom of the bucket to keep the bucket from wearing out. but every time I try to weld it it cracks, one or two welds have held, but I’m sure once I go to weld on the opposite side of the piece those two will crack as well, something like that. Is hardened like cast where you have to cool it super slow after winding it? Do I need to stitch it with like 1 inch welds 10 minutes in between each 1 inch? Is this even possible? What the hell am I doing?

Never ordered from them before until now for a metre length of O1 square bar. Far as I can see, the prices look mint(or at least a lot better than anything else I've found) for either machinable or smithing stock.

The 400 character limit is fucking me a little here on making this post not sound like a 9 paragraph AI post.

Alternative question:

Where are you finding decent steel stock that doesn't cost a fortune? I'm not game enough to spend 5k on mild plate.

I just picked up a used Makita LW1401 chop saw and the blade is nowhere even close to square with the table. There are no obvious adjustments on the saw. I rooted around looking for a solution but no luck. Anyone here know if there is even a way to to do this? I have to have 400 characters for this to post so im rambling. That's close to 10 lines! To the mods of this sub think Im Thomas Wolfe (guy that writes really long and often tedious novels). There, I did it.

a part can measure perfectly on its own and still cause trouble once it goes into an assembly. hole spacing, alignment, heat distortion, stack-up tolerances, or even the order of assembly can turn a seemingly correct job into a headache

it's one thing when a measurement is obviously wrong. it's much harder when every individual dimension checks out

when this happens, what's usually the culprit in your experience? i'm interested in the less obvious causes that don't show up until the parts come together.

Hello everyone. I have recently been trying to bend round tubing to create a cross kart. I have been having issues with my tubing coming out very uneven. I cannot seem to trace the issue. I have already drawn a straight line all across the tubing before bending and have been placing my clamp block on that straight line, but it still seems to be coming out this way. The simplest thing to do is cut it in half and weld the two parts back together. Does anyone have any tips and tricks to avoid this issue? I am using a 1.75 die with a 6-inch centerline radius. The tubing I am using is 1.75 x 0.134.

Spent some time on this shaft at the lathe. Long parts always make me pay a bit more attention, especially when it comes to keeping things straight over the full length.

We got the straightness within 0.01 mm on this one, which I'm pretty happy with. Getting the diameter right at a few points is one thing, but making sure the whole shaft stays within the required geometry is a different job.

I find these parts interesting because the finished result doesn't always show how much attention went into getting there. Sometimes you look at a shaft and it just looks like a shaft. Then you check the measurements and appreciate the work a bit more.

The lamp work torch fell down and unfortunately two of the tips broke. The torch is for working with glass and it's a rare type so it's hard to find another or will be expensive buy.

My father has some welding experience but for cars and some metal working.

I'm wondering where or can the tips be repaired? Or is it possible to order same tips somewhere? Thanks for looking and offering help in comments in advance.

I was cutting an aluminum plate earlier...I'd been planning this for a week or more, preparing...at the last moment I thought "I'll add masking tape over the areas I'm cutting".

I had no real thoughts of the why other than maybe keeping aluminum dust from flying, maybe making the cut cleaner..something......I decided at worst it did nothing.

My question is... did it help? did it hurt? did it nothing at all?

I want to show you my little decoration project. The leaves are made of stainless steel with heat-tinted coloring, and the mushroom is steel with a rusted cap.

To get these beautiful heat colors on the stainless steel leaves, I used an oxy-acetylene torch. It allowed me to control the heat precisely and get those nice autumn shades. After shaping the parts, I used TIG welding (WIG-Schweißen) to put everything together cleanly. It was a fun project to practice both heat tinting and fine welding. Let me know what you think!

It's used for cutting metal and comes in glass jar be heat resistant. The entire jar is intended to withstand a lot of heat. They sell for about 80 cents/gram. Higher bulks actually have higher cost per gram than smaller ones. But at minimum it's 60 cents/gram, 2x the other product. It has sodium nitrite in the formula. The contents is never intended to be removed.

My boss has asked me to get this stuff but I went to a shop and am unsure what it is

I recently bought a welder and I have many projects in mind, but several of them require me to drill holes ranging from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch diameter in mild steel stock (nothing thicker than 1/4 inch) my question is this; can the cheap standing or benchtop drill presses sold at places like Home Depot and harbor freight handle jobs like this? Their minimum rpms are a bit on the high side, but I honestly don’t wanna buy a large old industrial press. Just looking for some wisdom from those who are more experienced!

i’m currently a 16 y/o hs school student who is currently enrolled in a welding class, i really enjoy it because it’s one of the few classes i feel somewhat confident in

within 3 years (in and out of school) i’ve learned how to stick, mig, and tig weld

this was all mig welding from tn in my home garage

i’m looking for advice as well because i know im not the best but i want to work my way into being good

for a young welder who wants to do this as i here grow, do i have a decent future for becoming a welder as a full time job?