Love it when hobbies/interests collide!

I have made this partial neck through bass with the neck being made from bocote and the body made from mahogany. I was just wanting to see if anyone had a solution on how to finish bocote or other exotic, oily woods. I have seen a lot of different answers, but i haven't seen one talking about finishing bocote and mahogany in the same piece. I plan on staining the mahogany, and usually use polyurethane to finish all of my other mahogany bodies, but have seen that the oils in bocote mess with the curing process of the polyethylene.

Also, learn from my mistakes and never use bocote as a neck. Sanding, rasping, and filing has been a terrible experience. And it kind of smells like boiled hotdogs.

I was chatting with two boutique guitar builders who make very fine guitars indeed but when I asked whether they tap tune the guitars to voice then they said no, and rely only on deflection. I understand that introduces consistency in the guitars, but why not also use tap tuning? Do some believe it's unnecessary and deflection works just as well?

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Hi everyone! Is there anybody who knows where I can get a custom neck made in (or ships to) Melbourne, Australia? The Facebook group hasn't let me in yet LOL. The specs I want are:

- 27 Frets (30 if at all possible)

- 25" Scale

- Satin

- Drilled for All Access Neck Joint

- Kramer K-Speed profile

- Graph Tech UnLock Nut

- Maple

- Richlite or Ebony Board

- Luminlay Face and Side Dots

- Uli Jon Roth Sky Guitar Headstock (Reverse)

Any help would be really appreciated, I have a body maker ready and waiting!

New version of my Terrasonic model.

A DiMarzio EP1111 three-way switch controls both pickups simultaneously:

• Up — Series: Full humbucker output, thick and punchy.
• Center — Coil Split: Single-coil character with more bite and clarity.
• Down — Parallel: Both coils active, brighter and more open than series, while retaining hum cancellation.

A separate three-way blade selects neck, bridge, or both, giving nine combinations in total.

Body: Korina
Top: Burl Ash
Neck: Birdseye Sapelle
Fretboard: Brazilian Rosewood

This one features my new 6 in line headstock design.

I’m getting ready to paint this old Strat body I stripped down, is leaving the paint in the electronics cavity or neck pocket an issue? she’s wet in the pictures following a 400 grit sand.

Hi, I have a guitar that has a Floyd Rose bridge on it, and is a set neck design, so shimming the neck isn’t an option here. I can only get the action to a point where it is medium-high to high, and when I try to go any lower, I can get a tad bit lower, (but still much higher than I would like), my guess is that the Floyd roses base plate hits the wood around what holds the posts in. Also, the bridge starts catching on something, as whenever I pull back on the bar it’s sort of “locks” itself into this position where it plays about 15 cents sharper. Neck geometry and angle is still something I’m very confused about, but would looking for a thinner, Floyd Rose base plate, ensuring the bridge saddles have no shims in them, and then last case scenario, sending it to a luthier, to get them to carve out the wood around the post a bit lower work?

I believe this is not a well known brand? - Trinity - TNY-3950C N ( Made in Indonesia )

From what I checked, it's not a bolted neck joint, it's a glued neck joint. I say this because, i looked into the guitar using my mobile and there aren't any bolts at the area where the joint exists. It's all plain

I do have another guitar i.e Yamaha C80 but this guitar was my first guitar, so it does carry a sentimental value for me. Should i stop playing it? or it's fine to use it? Also can someone explain what the exact damage is?

Thank You!

When I made a test body out of poplar, the pickups fit just fine. It was an up cut bit and when I cut this it was with down cut bit. Both 1/4”. This was done on a cnc by the way. I’m thinking hand tools here but am hesitant lol. More comfortable with a router but think that opens the door to many possibilities of making firewood. Guess I need to buy a set of good chisels and scrapers.

Got hammered and dragged my poly finish les paul across my driveway thinking it will be a cool relic job. Should I pay someone to relic the whole guitar now because I’ve ruined it? I don’t think there is a way to salvage it

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I’ve searched and can’t find the answer on my own.

I bought some stainless steel saddles to throw on my guitar. They have Philips head screws to adjust the intonation. The stock saddles that came with the guitar have Allen head intonation screws.

I’d like to keep using the Allen head screws, I always seem to strip Philips heads, but they seem to be just a tad bigger than the new saddles and don’t fit. Anyone know where to get screws like this?

Thanks in advance!

I bought this damaged D-15 Martin for $300 with the intention of repairing it as project for our family guitar club. We are novice woodworkers with our only guitar building experience coming from the Woodcraft build your own acoustic guitar weekend class. Our first club meeting is Nov 4th and I expect there will be plenty of discussion on how best to repair her. My opinion is for the repair to favor sound quality over appearance since she's 26yo and my plan is to name her Scar-let. The crack starts just above the sound hole and wraps around to be just short of the strap button. Any advice will be greatly appreciated ! Thanks, GCG

I'm working on my Squier Bullet and was thinking about changing pickups

Thank you :)

Hey there! I have a vintage Gibson that kind of fell into my lap, and I’m curious what (if any) repair should be done. This guitar appears to have been kept in a poor climate because the neck seems to very dried out. The binding is separating a little the closer to the body and a few of the inlays are popping up. I don’t have a ton of money, so sending it to a fancy shop isn’t really a possibility right now. I cleaned it up, strung it, and have been playing it as is, but I’m curious if I’m doing my harm than good. Thanks for any info/advice!

i’m wanting to put individual volume pots in my tele with a 3 way style mud switch but i’m getting confused on if wiring a blade switch as an on/off/on is possible. thanks for any help!

Hello, I'm looking for a tremolo bridge that can still go up and down. I don't want anything that's hard to do a string change on, just something that will do its job. I don't want anything like a Floyd for a big ol bigsby.

I was looking at the Gotoh Wilkinson VS100N Tremolo and the WVS50 IIK Tremolo.

* Body: 000, 14-fret

* Top: Bearclaw Engelmann Spruce (Picea engelmannii)

* Sides: Purpleheart (Peltogyne spp.)

* Back: Three-piece Purpleheart and Katalox (Swartzia cubensis)

* Binding: Flamed Maple (Acer rubrum)

* Rosette: Mother of Pearl and Cocobolo (Dalbergia retusa)

* Neck: Five-piece Mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla), Katalox, and Flamed Maple

* Fingerboard: Ebony (Diospyros crassiflora)

* Fingerboard Inlays: Hand-cut Mother of Pearl

* Bridge: Ebony, pyramid style

* Nut & Saddle: Bone

* Headstock: Purpleheart

* Headstock Inlay: Lizardite

* Tuners: Gotoh 15:1, nickel

* Scale Length: 25 21/32”

* Fingerboard Radius: 12”

* Finish: High-gloss nitrocellulose lacquer

I am planning a guitar build based around a Jaguar body and pickguard, I've tinkered a bit on guitars but custom wiring always trips me up.

I'd have a single coil neck and a humbucker at the bridge, the humbucker I'm looking at is built with two different coils with their own distinct sounds, and so I'd love to utilize the three on/off switches traditionally on the Jag control plate to be able to turn on each coil individually (neck, bridge top, bridge bottom). Is this doable, and would it have any effect on the humbucking ability of the pickup? Would one of the split coils and the neck single coil be out of phase with each other?

Additionally I intend to use the rhythm circuit switch as a bridge pickup override, switching the volume and tone controls to the roller pots on the side with different values, the neck would still go to the master volume and tone knobs.

Any input is appreciated! There's a good chance whenever I get all the parts I'll end up going to a pro, but I like to do things myself when I can.

I have bass parts lying around and was wondering if I could remove the frets from the neck, fill up the places where the frets were so I can keep the markings and learn how to play fretless. Is that possible? I don't care how tedious the work would be, I have time

Howdy all, getting my guitar signed by my favorite band and i was planning on using a gold sharpie for them to use on the body. I don’t trust myself to not mess up putting on a clear coat as Iv never done anything like that to a guitar and it’s my pride and joy. Any brands that are good for an operation like this and I take it I should call around to guitar shops and see if they offer paint services? What would an average job like this cost?

No glue bleed through. First sealer coat wiped in last night. The stoke is very real. Flash/No flash/head on. Yea I know the center line isn't perfect. Madrone is a b*tch. I'm very happy with it

Hello, I dropped my Yamaha FG700S and this happened on the bottom left side of the top. It doesn’t appear that there is any structural damage, although part of the chip goes down to wood.

It seems like scraping it flat and using CA glue is the way to go for repair? If so, does the viscosity of the CA glue matter? Also, what kind of compound or polish or sandpaper is recommended for restoring the glossy finish once the repair is done?

Thanks in advance.

Recently picked up a G4M 30” baritone and noticed that not all of the saddles are facing the same way. Is it supposed to be like this? And if so, why?

I'm starting a PRS SE style build, but can't find any resources on how deep the 'slope' is on the sides of the top. There also seems to be different depths for the sides/ bottom, vs the cutaway. Does anyone know the measurements?