The XPL almost seems like their answer to the CRF Rally, though it still has just a 2 gallon tank.

DF

Hello wondering if anyone has had there rear shock leak and if so what they did. I ride it more like a dirtbike trying to turn it into my all rounder unicorn bike but the rear finally gave out it seemed. Just looking for info on what shim stack people used and tips trying to make it more trail oriented

Looking for some help diagnosing a coolant-in-oil issue on a 2014 KLX250S with a KLX300/292cc top end.
I bought the bike knowing it had a coolant leak. The previous owner told me the coolant-in-oil issue existed BEFORE he swapped the top end. He bought a used KLX300 cylinder/head setup and installed it trying to fix the problem. He said he used new aftermarket/eBay gaskets when he installed it.
Here’s what I’ve figured out:
Coolant was getting into the crankcase badly enough that with the engine OFF and cold, filling the cooling system resulted in green coolant coming out of the oil drain.
I isolated the water-pump side by disconnecting the coolant hose where it enters the cylinder.
With coolant going through the pump circuit but NOT entering the cylinder, nothing came out of the oil drain.
Once the cylinder/head cooling circuit is involved, coolant gets into the crankcase.
I pulled the head today.
The head gasket that was installed fits the 78mm-ish bore, BUT some of the coolant openings—especially the two toward the front of the engine—do not appear to line up correctly with the actual water-jacket openings in the cylinder.
I ordered an OEM KLX300 head gasket (11004-0091), and from the pictures its coolant openings look much closer to the actual openings in my cylinder than the gasket I removed.
My original plan was to pull the cylinder and inspect/replace the base gasket too, but looking at the cylinder and base-gasket design, I’m not seeing where coolant actually crosses the cylinder-to-crankcase/base-gasket interface. The coolant inlet appears to feed the water jacket in the cylinder, which then travels upward through the openings at the head-gasket surface.
So my questions are:
Could the incorrect/misaligned head gasket allow coolant to drain directly into an oil-return passage/crankcase even with the engine off?
Does coolant on these KLX250/300 engines actually cross the base-gasket surface anywhere, or is the water jacket contained in the cylinder until it reaches the head?
Is there any reason to pull the cylinder/base gasket at this point if there’s no external base leak?
Are there any known cracks/passages in the KLX300 head/cylinder that can cause a gravity-fed coolant-to-crankcase leak?
Does anyone recognize this head gasket / know whether the coolant-hole arrangement is wrong for a KLX300 top end?
Also I got this bike for 700 bucks hopefully I don’t lose my ass.

Hello all,

Does anybody know the exact type of hardware that comes with these plates? Specifically for a 2025..I somehow lost one of the front bolts and I would like to replace it.

So I just installed a full titanium cobalt exhaust, turned on the bike to test it, revved it and it shut off, spun it around the block, revved it and then it shut off, what’s the fix for this?

Just got my first bike ever, super excited. 4k only 300 miles, not too bad i feel👍

Just pulled my 2009 250s out as the hottest summer know to man comes to an end. Pulled and cleaned the carb. She idles but full throttle just stutters. Occasionally she'll realize shes a dirt bike and shoot up to 8k rpms but im struggling to get past 3/4k. Some forums point towards the diaphragm not sealing correctly. I dont know much about carbs and this thing is testing me.

Context: the video is wide open throttle back to idle. Jets have been cleaned. Pilot jet is actually turned 2.5 turns rather than the 1 5/8 stock setting. All components stock to my knowledge.

Additional picture of the slide diaphragm here

Hey y’all, looking for ideas on why my 2006 klx 250/351 shut off last night. Bike has the Bill Blue 351 kit, mikuni carb that was just fully cleaned and rejetted after putting on a delkevic exhaust. I know the last guy put a 1.8psi radiator cap on it. It starts right up and I’ve got the idle set to about 1500 rpm. It runs great until it gets hot. Then it’ll start to kinda skip a bit, almost like it’s misfiring. Last night I took it on its first longer ride and it stalled out while idling at a light after riding 15 miles or so. The fan comes on and I never have gotten an overheating light on the cluster.

Anyways after letting it sit an hour it started up fine, idled smooth, but a couple minutes into riding it was skipping again. Is it just overheating? That’s the only thing we could come up with because it seems to run fine until it gets hot. Any ideas on what else could be happening?

There appears to be a zip tie around the hose instead of a metal clamp. What are the chances the secondary throttle plate has already been removed? I don't have a replacement clamp for this hose on hand.

I didn’t even make my first payment and I fell down a 5 foot deep hole in the middle of a gravel road where a culvert washed out: a new headlight is over $1000 and it’s like pulling teeth to get the insurance company to pay

This is my KLX300. Here’s all the mods I’ve done so far:

BDSB ecu flash
BDSB airbox lid
o2 sensor delete w/dongle
STP removed
Delkevic full exhaust w/spark arrestor
Tusk D-flex handguards
Pro Taper CR High bend bars w/bar end mirrors
ODI Nomad lock on grips
Tusk skid plate
GiPro gear indicator
IMS foot pegs
PMR rear rack
Nelson-Rigg tail bag
Yoshimura fender eliminator kit
Cogent Dynamics 7kg rear spring
Racetech fork springs

It’s a whole new bike now, yes I’m aware the bike is perfect right from factory however I can’t leave anything stock.

What are you supposed to use to grease cables or other things? I have the service manual but my god is it vague on what to use.

First ride on the new bike today. Took off and hit the bush for a bit!

Installed a 7kg Cogent Dynamics rear spring and stiffer Racetech fork springs. I’m 6’4 and weigh 250 so this was a much needed upgrade for me, the bike feels so much better now!

Has anyone tested the abs sensor for continuity? I am trying to diagnose my abs code, which was 43 and 42, and reading the instrcutions they are blaiming it either on the abs hydraulic or the sensor. Dont wanna buy both, so wanna diagnose the sensor. Has anyone tried the continuity on the sensor? Could reference it with the back one, but that is going to be one hell of a nightmare to do, since the cable is buried in the middle of the bike.

I'll take any thoughts on going from a 250L to 300R... Too sideways?

This was very disappointing. Always soon after the warranty runs out