I first drained the original coolant. Then added in distilled water and the Motorcraft VC-1 Coolant Flush. Drove around for about 20 minutes with the heater blasting to let it all work through the system.

In the first drain I poured another gallon of distilled water into the overflow basin to help flush out the original gunk, that’s why there’s two #1 gallon bottles on the first flush.

After that it was just add distilled water, run the engine for a bit, and then drain. I had originally bought 5 gallons of distilled water, but it took more, so I had to go to the store. I went to the store (7 minutes each way) with only distilled water in the coolant resovoir, and I think that’s why bottle 5 looks dirtier than bottle 4, as it got more time running through the system.

But, finally the 8th flush came out completely clear.

When it came time to add the new Yellow coolant I knew I would still have some distilled water leftover in the coolant system, so I would need to add concentrate to get the mix right. I took the internets advice and added 3 Liters of concentrate and then topped up the rest of the way with distilled water (about another liter or so). So far the mix seems right

I'm sure I know the answer. If it looks like a duck and sounds like a duck, it likely is a duck.

This os what the upper engine mount looks like. 2018 Mk3 Focus ST-Line, 1.5 182HP ecoBoost engine.

Gently pressed on the center rubber, it made a cracking noise and sprayed dark red fluid all over my hands.

Already ordered a new mount from febi bilstein. Didn't notice much about the driving though, its a bit more rough on shifting, especially low gears but figured it's from driving so much short distance recently.

Kinda ironic, we literally just did the same mount on my moms Mk2 Cabrio. Weird timing..

Mk3 Facelift 11/2015 – SYNC 2

I’m having a problem with the Bluetooth connection.
Basically, I had my phones (iPhone 13 Pro Max and iPhone 13 mini) connected via Bluetooth, and everything was working perfectly fine, including music playback. Then, all of a sudden, the music stopped playing, and I haven’t been able to reconnect either phone to the car since.

The entire display works exactly as it should, and there are no other issues. However, neither phone can detect the car, nor can the car detect either phone. I also tried connecting via USB cable, but that doesn’t work either.

So far, I’ve tried the following:

-Performed a soft reset.
-Performed a hard reset.
-Removed the fuse, started the engine for 2 minutes, switched the engine off, and then reinstalled the fuse.
-Disconnected the battery for 15 minutes.
-Connected a Vgate diagnostic scanner, but it showed no fault codes for the APIM (although I’m not sure how reliable Vgate is for this).

Does anyone have any other ideas on how to fix this or how to diagnose what’s actually causing the problem?

Never did a coolant drain and refill. Should I do one? I heard it helps my water pump and radiator last longer.

Hello all, I changed the clutch on my 2012 DPS6 a couple months ago. It generally works fine but I get the occasional bog as if letting off the clutch on a manual with no throttle uphill. Only happens when slightly tapping the gas in stop and go traffic. I'm leaning more towards actuators but wanted some input. I've played musical actuators a few times with a couple from the junkyard, but those are just as likely to be worn out as the originals. If this sounds like an actuator issue, I'll have no issue buying new ones but wanted to check first. Also occasionally hear the fork engaging over and over while cruising but a quick blip of the throttle stops it and it's fine. I've heard these could also be from TCM software as Ford has been known to attempt to calm the clutch system down with different TCM values. Thanks in advance for any input🤙

I have less than 3 mm left on my break pads so I figured it's time to switch them.  The last time I swapped out my brake pads and rotors was back in 2019.  I had a shop do it and it cost me $700 in total.  I'm guessing it'll be more in this day and age so I'll attempt to do it myself and I was wondering if you kind folks can help me out.

I'll be following the instructions in here:  https://youtu.be/9GWh8VjTxTk?si=2uoA1M9igleBRSkr

A couple of questions:

1. Do I need blue Loctite when putting back the caliper bolts in?
2. Do I need to replace the rotor?  It's a good idea right?
3. What brand should I buy?  I was planning on getting a brake pad/rotor set on Rock Auto with a heart next to them.

Please forgive me as I am a newb but I can watch a YouTuber video and follow instructions.  For example I can change my own oil, tires, spark plugs, engine mount and simple things like that.

Thank you in advance!

Does anyone know what this could be? It also makes a weird sound when accelerating too. It doesn’t slip on the clutch is fine.

Any ideas?

I was wondering if you guys can also help?

Hi everyone,

I have a 2004 Ford Focus MK2 estate, 1.4 petrol, 80 hp, with a manual gearbox.

I’ve noticed a high-pitched, steady “Wiiiiii” whining noise that seems to come from the left side of the car, possibly from the rear left wheel.

Here are the symptoms:

- On dry roads, the noise usually starts at around 80 km/h.

- On wet roads, it can start as early as 60–70 km/h and becomes noticeably louder.

- When I accelerate, the noise gets louder. When I lift off the accelerator, it becomes quieter, but the pitch seems to stay the same.

- I can barely hear it inside the cabin, but it is clearly audible from outside.

- My brother was sitting behind me and thought the noise was coming from the rear left.

- The noise does not seem to change when gently steering left or right.

- I first noticed it around the time I replaced the wheels/tires and brake discs/pads, although I’m not 100% sure they are related.

- The gearbox oil level has always been correct, and the gearbox has already received fresh oil.

- I haven’t checked the rear dust shields/backing plates yet.

- I haven’t noticed obvious sawtooth wear on the tires.

I’ve read that a whining noise that changes with acceleration can come from the differential or gearbox bearings. However, the fact that the noise is much louder on wet roads and seems to come from the rear left makes me suspect the tire, wheel bearing, or brake area as well.

What would you check first? Could a tire produce this kind of noise even without visible sawtooth wear? And is it possible for a wheel bearing to make noise only at higher speeds without noticeable play or a change in noise when cornering?

I’d appreciate any advice or similar experiences. Thanks!

Does anyone know what could be causing this?

Needed to change actuator after code 0902, right after overheating alert, transmission is fine ( says the mechanic), they can’t find the reason of overheating, no codes at all. They think the tcm needs replacement, or there is an electrical problem. Any ideas please ?

I have a focus mk3.5. A HUD is connected to show the ECT( Engine Coolant Temperature)

When AC is on, fans work properly, temp ~ 90°C

When AC is off, temp > 102 ° C but fans do not work yet.

Is it normal?

Ford Focus 2.0 TDCi PowerShift Automatic, 2014 model – Error code P2714, workshop says transmission is faulty

Hello everyone,

I drive a 2014 Ford Focus with a 140 hp 2.0 TDCi diesel engine and a PowerShift automatic transmission. The current mileage is approximately 242,000 km.

Unfortunately, I am having trouble with the transmission. An error message reading "Transmission Malfunction" or "Transmission Limited Function" appears.

The error code is P2714.

The following symptoms are occurring:

• The car jerks while driving.
• The transmission shifts too late.
• The error message appears primarily at speeds above 100 km/h.

The transmission fluid has already been changed, but unfortunately, the problems persist.

The workshop says I need a completely new transmission. Before spending that much money, I would like to hear your opinions and experiences.

My questions:

1. Does error code P2714 really mean the entire transmission is broken?
2. Could the cause be a solenoid valve, the mechatronics unit, or another issue within the transmission?
3. Has anyone experienced similar problems with their Ford Focus PowerShift and managed to get it repaired without replacing the entire transmission?
4. What diagnosis or repair would you recommend?

I would be grateful for any tips or accounts of your experiences.

Many thanks in advance!

Hello guys, I just got a 4-wheel alignment two days ago. Since then the car feels floaty and unstable, even at low speeds. It just feels unsafe to drive and swervy.

Looking at the printout the shop gave me, the front is fine, but the rear toe after adjustment is:

Left: -0°59'
Right: -1°48'
Total: -2°46'

The spec on the same printout is +0°06' to +0°16' per wheel, +0°12' to +0°32' total.

Before the adjustment, total rear toe was -0°31', so it looks like they made it worse.
Thrust angle is +0°24'.

Am I reading it right that the rear is now heavily toed out? I don’t know what the safe angle limits are.

Thank you!!

What torque (Nm) should I use to tighten the front axle nut on a 2019 Ford Focus Mk4 2.0 EcoBlue 150 hp with an automatic transmission? It’s the single nut on the driveshaft, which takes a 32 mm socket. Thanks!

So I have a 2018 ST2 with the HID/Xenon headlights and my clear coat is peeling and the passenger one just got really foggy after a recent trip to CA so I’m trying to look up replacement aftermarket headlights, but all of them are Halogen compatible only. Please help!

When the sun shines the colour really pops!

Love the way she looks. 102k on the clock now, try to take the best care of her I can! Always a few little bits to sort.

Ho notato una perdita olio, molto mi dicono che causata dalla guarnizione delle punterie. È giusto?

Loose piece of plastic behind front grille, dont know if it’s important or?