This would be my first bmw I’m looking to work on it all myself. Is this a good price they are asking $2400. Does have check engine light on

Bought my 2011 335i N55 less than two months ago and I’m already four grand into maintenance and repairs. So far it’s had a valve cover leak, seized caliper, needed new plugs, coolant hoses, control arm bushings both rear wheel bearings and a new radiator.

I know there’s plenty more to come with the common failure items and at 120k I’m wondering if it’s even worth it to keep at this point. I’ve never had such a headache of a vehicle and this one has been single owner dealer maintained its entire life with 12,000 dollars of service receipts from its life.

Any advice? Yeah i know I’m preaching to the choir.

Changed the struts on my 08 328i finally, I used Monroe's oespectrum line for em cuz I couldn't afford direct OEM replacements and heard they were the next best to keep ride quality. I reused the old springs cuz they were still good tho

Hello, I own an E90 with fully equipped beige sport seats. Seats are in good condition, but damn, I really dont like the beige interior. Problem, I can’t find a fully equipped E90 seat in different colours still being in good condition. As I live in Europe, I think about 3 options:

1. Just put new leather on my old ones. It will cost a lot.
2. Look for UK sport seats just in good condition and use their leather on my old ones.
3. Find UK sport seats in perfect condition, fully equipped and change the modules for front seats.

What do you guys think? Which option would you choose?

So i've had this car for about 3 years now, oil change every 4k km (might be a little longer for this most recent upcoming change), and I happened to notice smoke coming out of my engine while stopping at a light. I thought it was something minor so I let it pass and now I noticed it happened again and it smelt like burnt oil. I will be booking an appointment to get this checked out but I was wondering if this is a big problem. Am I going to be fucked? Attached are some images below for where the leak is.

2006 E90 330d

My stereo has been cutting out seemingly randomly for a few weeks and i'd really like to divvy it down before i have to rip the dash out or something STUPID lol. It cuts out as seen in the video regardless of how many things are on in the car, and i'm also sure it's not a battery issue or alternator issue as they have both been replaced within the last year.

I would like to assume it may just be that my stereo is dead after 20 years of service since it is just the stereo cutting out and no other electronics.

If anyone has had a similar thing happen and could share it'd be greatly appreciated 🙏

(Also have had stereo out and checked visible cables)

Hey guys, I’m thinking about getting this 328i coupe 2008 with Xdrive and Its a rebuild title with 70k km and it needs a repaint. Should i go with the dark blue or get it done black? Which would look better? Additionally, what are some type of tires I should get for it, all season or all weather and i live in canada.

I know about the lifter tick so I’m not worried about that but I feel like I hear something coming from where the timing chain is or like a pully. It only does this at idle, when I drive it goes away, anyone got any ideas?

My stock manual E90 recently started making a fluttering noise when revving or accelerating. It starts after about 5–7 minutes of driving, but sometimes goes away after idling for a few minutes.
It sounds like it’s coming from underneath the car, around the driver’s door. There’s also an occasional rattle when accelerating from a stop and a few quiet pops when letting off the gas.
The car still drives smoothly with no warning lights. Pressing the clutch at idle doesn’t change the noise. Has anyone experienced something similar?

Hey everyone! I own a 2008 E90 320D, the engine has ~100k kms on it, factory turbo but it has been tuned, not aggressively. After replacing my headlight bulbs I noticed that both charge pipes which are connected to the turbo and then to the radiator have been slowly slowly leaking oil. Now I can see that the connection is a bit loose and not all the way seated but this looks like far more oil than there should be.

Car doesn't smoke when driving or at idle, I haven't noticed any loss in power or any increase in oil usage.

What should my next steps be?

How to remove the plugs off of my fuse box under the glovebox? 2010 e90 330i.

Im trying to remove the fuse box to clean it off because it was hit by water due to rain and the wiper relay got corroded. Not sure what else got water in it, so trying to remove it and clean it up. It was a pain to get this far, but im having a hard time removing these connectors. I dont want to break anything or cut any wires by mistake.

My E92 328i has a slightly rough idle, smoke on startup, and occasional hard shifts/kicks. Sometimes around 1,500–2,000 RPM, the car jolts like it’s slipping, but it drives smoothly on the highway. I replaced the MAF and the kicks seemed to improve slightly, but they’re still happening. Codes I’ve had: 2D06, 2A7A, 2D15, 2D27 and 2F08. The only codes I have now is 2E06, an the other codes sometimes come up as not present on my scanner, Could these symptoms all be related to an air-mass/MAF, or does it sound like a separate transmission problem? Has anyone experienced this on an N52? TIA 🙏

E92 2007 328xi with around 128k miles. Has a weird rattle under the car. The key thing is that I’ve only really heard this when the car is on ramps, i.e. at an incline I guess. I do not hear it day to day, but it’s worth noting that if I have the windows down while driving at a low speed next to a tall curb or wall, there is a similar metallic tapping sound heard (but only when pressing the gas pedal).

Overall I’m thinking this is either a loose heat shield somewhere, or a transmission low on fluid (GA6L45R). The rationale behind the transmission is that the pickup/filter is towards the front, so if the car is at an incline it could be struggling to suck in fluid?

Any ideas/thoughts?

Hello,

I’m having a vacuum issue on my 2009 BMW 335d, I previously noticed that the vacuum line running to my turbo waste gate actuator (on the front of the engine by the thermostat and water pump) was disconnected. It’s been like this as far as i know since i got the car 6 months ago.

I recently just replaced the line with a silicone hose (referenced this video https://youtu.be/ABK3uFIW-nA?is=JJdshcY18vxLfzQo) along with a couple others. I doubled checked everything and it all seems to be routed correctly.

Now, however, my car is giving me a “4530: 4530 boost pressure control, control deviation” code and throws it into limp mode almost right away. When I re-disconnect the turbo waste gate actuator line, the car runs “normal” like it did before with no codes or limp modes.

Any thoughts?

I also double checked all charge pipes and intake and everything seems to be attached correctly.

All help is greatly appreciated, thank you.

Will 220m wheels fit on my 335i awd? Will I have to roll panels? Stock suspension
Thanks

Hi, everyone! Does anyone happen to know why it makes that sound? It doesn't do that when it's warm.

N53b30A BMW E92 330ix 272hp

Hello guys, is it possible to repair this kind of connector ? i buy febi shit one and when i try to plug him i somehow pulled cables out of it. Thanks. (in the photo is older one)

Do we really think its worth it?

Hi, I know absolutely nothing about cars lol but I got my first at the start of this year - a 09 323i. Just looking to remove the sluggish feel if that's what you'd call it? Don't care about horsepower or performance or anything like that. Done some research & seems like throttle controllers (Ultimate9 EVC401 is the one I'm looking at) do what I'm looking for? Anyone have any experience with it? Its not going to cause any issues like stressing out the engine or something is it? Totally out of my depth here