Hello all, here's a round-up of controller news from the past month, including IFA Berlin and Tokyo Game Show. Wishing you a happy autumn in the north, spring in the south, and hump day everywhere!
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Hardware releases - controllers and parts that are now shipping:
Marius MH-XSX replacement circuit boards for Microsoft's Xbox Series/model 1914 controllers are now available for wholesale (and thus available via various custom controller builders). Like the equivalent Marius boards for DualShock 4 and DualSense controllers, these have 8kHz polling rate (on PC) and are available in versions which can be fitted with 5-pin or 3-pin stick sensors.
Mobapad C2 Lite is a cost-reduced version of the Chitu 2 for Nintendo Switch. It has Hall Effect stick sensors and internal restriction rings ('glide rings'), with two rear buttons, an RGB lighting strip, and mobile app support for changing settings. It uses the Switch 1 protocol, with additional mobile and PC modes (although triggers are digital only). Priced at USD 27 / GBP 25 if you only need Bluetooth connection or USD 36 to include a 2.4GHz dongle for PC.
Razer Prio is a compact mobile controller with low-profile/recessed capacitive thumbsticks, quiet tactile switches, and USB-C connection to Android and iOS devices. It folds down to 107×67×23mm for portability, while accommodating phones 'up to 7 inches' diagonal screen (iPhone 17 Pro Max and Samsung S26 Ultra mentioned, so around 164mm length). Priced at EUR 110 / GBP 100 / USD 100.
Steelseries Aeon Pro is a licensed wireless Xbox controller with integrated OLED screen, swappable batteries, Hall Effect stick and trigger sensors, dual-mode triggers, mouse-type microswitches, and four rear paddles. Similar to some headsets, the docking station incorporates the wireless receiver, charging for the spare battery, and dual (console/PC) USB connections. It is priced at GBP 230 / EUR 260 / USD 260.
Trust GXT 737 Rovix is an extendable multi-platform controller accommodating devices between 110-195mm in length. It uses Bluetooth connection for Android, iOS, Switch, and PC, has Hall Effect stick and analog trigger sensors, two additional rear buttons, and swappable cross/disc-shaped D-pad caps. Priced at around EUR 60 / GBP 50 with a hardshell case and two-year warranty.
Turtle Beach Rematch Wireless for Xbox, initially launching with a Minecraft special edition and RGB back-lighting for the faceplate design. It uses TMR stick sensors and impulse triggers, with wireless dongle for Xbox One/Series consoles and Bluetooth for Android devices. Like previous Rematch models, it has adjustable trigger stops and two rear buttons. Priced at EUR 100 / GBP 90 / USD 100.
Voidjoy Elite Extender for Switch Pro Controller is a clip-on attachment for the official Nintendo Switch (1) Pro Controller. It adds a range of features more commonly found on third-party controllers, including: two back buttons; two analog triggers (for use on PC); macro, turbo, and button remapping; stick deadzones and calibration; multi-platform connection modes including Switch 2 wake; compatibility with the Keylinker mobile app; and a supplementary battery. Priced at USD 40 but not currently available in EU countries.
Voidjoy SkyLark S1 Pro is a portable controller (133×75×24mm and 113g) with multi-platform compatibility (Switch, PC, PS3, Android/iOS). It has low-profile, recessed, TMR thumbsticks; optical trigger sensors; and wired/2.4GHz dongle/Bluetooth connections, with up to 8 Bluetooth device pairings. Priced at USD 50 for global sales.
Releases previously covered that went ahead:
Leadjoy Xeno Pro, as an incremental upgrade on the Xeno Plus to add stick tension adjustment and trigger vibration.
Releases previously covered that were delayed:
Flydigi Apex 6 and Apex 6 Pro, with their version of the audio-to-haptics feature replacing the adaptive triggers from the Apex 3-5. Orders within or directly from China may have been fulfilled but distribution of most pre-orders has been delayed until after the National Day/Golden Week holidays.
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Hardware announcements - controllers and parts that are not yet available:
AppleorBeats-branded controller rumors based on code identified in macOS 26.7 first release candidate but removed in the second release candidate. Two controllers are identified: a 'T6502' wired model, and a 'T1057' wireless model. The inputs and features covered by the code are largely unremarkable and may change significantly but this is mostly interesting for what it might indicate about Apple's interest in controller hardware. Apple's game controller support across macOS and iOS has been notably lacklustre: combining restrictive access with limited feature support and game compatibility. The information in the code doesn't do anything to dispel that reputation, but restricting third-party controllers might start to make more sense if Apple had their own first-party controllers.
Flydigi Vader 5S Pro shown at Tokyo Game Show with TMR instead of Hall Effect sensors on the adjustable tension sticks, and wireless connection for PC (wired on Xbox). As the name suggests, it's an update to the Vader 5S wired controller.
Infinix GT NX Controller is a split controller with large touchpad in place of the right stick (Steam controller style), and symmetrical upper layout (Wii U Pro controller style). Primarily intended for mobile gaming, the left and right grips can be used separately or together. The 1089mm^2 touchpad can be used in native or mouse mode, and the left stick and triggers use Hall Effect sensors. It claims 22 hours of run time, with 730mAh batteries in each of the grips. Official Infinix stores in the Philippines are selling it for around PHP 2600, but wider launch dates and pricing are not yet known.
Nacon Next controller appears to be a Revolution Unlimited for PS5 (name to be confirmed). It looks very similar to the Revolution X Unlimited but with a PlayStation logo instead of the Xbox logo.
Zuiki Evotop Axis Wired is a licensed controller for Nintendo Switch 2, with built-in screen for managing settings, fixed cable, four additional rear buttons, microswitch buttons, and an Xinput mode when connected to PC. It does not have motion controls, vibration, Amiibo support, or ability to wake the console. It is scheduled to release on November 12 for JPY 6500 in Japan. It is mostly notable for how much cheaper it is than Zuiki's previous Evotop models.
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Software - tools that could be useful:
ApexSenseBridge is a Windows app to emulate DualSense trigger and haptic effects on Flydigi Apex 4 and 5 controllers.
DS4Windows 5 or 'hbashton fork' has added support for the Nintendo Switch 2 Joy-Cons and Switch 2 Pro Controller and ability to emulate Xbox One/Series controllers in the latest release candidates
Fancy Haptics is a PC (Windows, Linux, SteamOS) app for converting audio signals to controller vibration, particularly in game/controller combinations that do not natively support the function. DualSense and Steam (2026) controllers with 'HD vibration' (voice coil) motors are directly supported, but a subset of the features also work with controllers that just have conventional rumble (eccentric rotating mass) motors.
GameSir Linux Tools or 'Deadband' is an unofficial Linux configuration app for some GameSir models (Cyclone 2, G7 Pro 8K, G7 Pro) and Logitech mice. The supported controller list may expand over time. It's reverse engineered from the GameSir Connect app so current features are similar: profile management, lighting, stick and trigger settings, macros, etc.
Joycon-Mouse is a Linux app to emulate a mouse and media remote using Nintendo Switch Joy-Cons.
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A digest can only represent a relatively small selection of news, so if you found other items ‘news-worthy’ in the past month feel free to add them in the comments.
Through a lot of research, trial and error, modifying the inside to save space, making sure the bending/folding/extending still works, and a whole lot of broken wires i finally did it. A wireless ASUS Tessen!
I could of done a better job on the switch (it's smooth/flush so you don't even know its there).
It's not perfect but everything works, it looks like it isn't even modified, and the Bluetooth i can use from literally across my house!
Parts I used:
300mah Battery
HiLetgo 1A 3.7V Lithium Battery Charging Board with Protection Type-C
DC-DC 1.5V -> 4.2V to 5V Boost Converter
Seeed Studio XIAO ESP32S3-2.4GHz
Small micro switch
Super thin flexible wire
"skorokithakis" on GitHub for their "bluetooth-gamepad" repo (AI to edit for compatability)
If you do wanna do this i highly recommend it, some tips i would give is:
To clear out as much space as possible inside the grips by removing some supports for the screw posts without removing them
Remove the stoppers for the extending arms or the wires will get caught.
Use some super thin and flexible wire for feeding through the extensions as it's super tight
When feeding wires across the extensions, make sure to join directly to the 5v converter board and the other sides power input. If you splice between them the wires will break from pulling the device easily (This will save you a lot of headaches)
Keep pressure on the center of the bridge so the wires don't curl.
Seeed on the right, battery on the left.
You can use the power input on the board instead of the bottom USB-C port to wire in the power as well
I also left my wiring diagram as well for anyone to use if they want to do this
Hello, I've been using my Apex 5 controller for close to a year now (purchased Nov 2025), and just recently it has started giving me issues with the right joystick not registering my inputs correctly. I have done a reset and calibration by pressing Select + Start + Up. However, this has not helped. Does anyone know of a way to fix this?
This badboy came in today, first thing is TMR, ive put in k silver js13 modules
I noticed the bottom piece is missing, but all the connections are still there. I wonder what happens if you put a piece from another controller there.
Important: this isn't a sponsored review. I bought the controller with my own money in a local online shop (OZON), made my own photos and I'm not affiliated with ASUS in any way. I'm not a professional reviewer or content creator, but an enthusiast. I just felt like sharing my impressions. Have a great day y'all.
One of the few purchases lately that I've genuinely enjoyed.
Build quality and ergonomics. Clean black minimalism, excellent build quality. The best grip of any controller I've tried. Pick it up and it feels like one solid piece, with the rear buttons sitting perfectly under your fingers.
Latency. #1 in wireless mode, top 5 wired. And GameSir is already in sixth place. But for context, out of everything ranked above it (Gamepadla - LatScore), only two are actually decent controllers: the symmetrical Void Genesis and the wired Tarantula..
Buttons and sticks. The clicks sound sharper and more metallic than Flydigi's, yet they're still quiet. Same goes for the D-pad and the triggers in click mode. Really satisfying, crisp feedback. The stock TMR sticks have fairly firm tension, roughly the fourth notch down from the maximum tension on the Vader 5 Pro. Zero-point calibration takes five seconds. Stick centering is perfect.
Hot-swap. Swapping sticks takes literally a couple of seconds, with absolutely no wobble or play. You get a spare pair with lighter tension and two interchangeable thumbstick caps: one tall and one short, dome-shaped. Plus four blanking caps for the removable rear buttons.
Magnetic faceplate. Some reviewers have been criticizing it, claiming it's flimsy and moves around when touched. Not quite. It fits very snugly. It's also easy to remove, which I see as nothing but a plus. No need to pry it open with a plastic pick and risk scratching the shell. There is indeed a tiny bit of travel in the grip sections when you press on them.
OLED? Display. The second standout feature. You can upload your own GIFs, and bright animations look especially impressive. There's some confusion about the display technology, since ASUS calls it a "full-color display," but everything points to it being an LCD. And despite the software literally saying "keyboard's OLED display," they apparently just left the description from a keyboard in there.
Rumble. Soft, velvety, and pleasant. It's stronger on the Vader, but that thing rattles like crazy, whereas the Raikiri delivers much more refined feedback.
Durability. Too early to judge, but I've put over 300 hours into the Vader and even thrown it against a wall a couple of times. Still looks brand new. Wouldn't recommend trying that with the Raikiri, though.. lol
Everything else. 8K polling over wireless, instant power on/off, no detection or connectivity issues whatsoever. The included accessories are also top-notch: a high-quality hard-shell case, a puller, spare sticks, interchangeable caps, and a charging dock.
Now, the price. If you're not willing to spend this kind of money on a controller, just get a Flydigi or GameSir and you'll enjoy it just as much. Although I ended up selling my GameSir and keeping the Vader 5 Pro. But personally, the ROG feels noticeably more premium.
I've spent quite a lot of time searching the web with various search engines and asking LLMs these questions but the tools available on websites aren't answering the questions I have (especially around xinput over bluetooth). The 'AI' responses are usually wrong and I'm sick of telling LLMs to stop guessing. Hoping the folks here can help by either pointing me in the direction of the resources I'm looking for, or help me narrow down how to do that. There's just so many controllers these days and this old nerd had no idea....
Problem statement:
My wife prefers to use a controller as she grew up with consoles. I am a PC gamer who has used a mouse and keyboard pretty much exclusively since the late 80s, but have no issue (from a technical standpoint) making anything from any source run on either Windows or Linux. I would prefer Linux support over windows.
After 6 months of faffing around it's become clear to me that a lot of games do not do well with DS (playstation type) protocol over bluetooth to Steam, even with Steam Input enabled. Have had a lot of trouble with several games my wife and I play, e.g. Witcher series, Uncharted, Skyrim, Horizon series... I could go on. I've fixed most issues using DS4 for WIndows where Steam Input was unable to help but I'd prefer to use Linux and native XInput support.
We need to use bluetooth. The lounge PC/TV is too far from the couch for a cable to not be a tangled mess people trip over. I am happy to use something like DS4 for windows or PS not PS for linux on a Nobara distribution to make xinput work if I have to but would prefer if it ran natively so we can use Bazzite.
I've read the buying guide and rules (shame the buying guide is hidden from old.reddit users, I'm lucky I found a mention of it in another users controller suggestion thread).
To answer the required questions for a suggestion thread:
Your budget and currency (do not say "doesn't matter" or "unlimited", include a sensible range or maximum) 200 NZD
Your country (not just region) and where you can buy from (product availability, pricing, and aftersales support vary around the world). New Zealand. Happy to buy from Amazon US, Australia or AliExpress.
Console or platform compatibility needed. Linux, pref Bazzite support for XInput with no OS layer remapping required.
Desired features. XBox, Steam Controller or PS layout all fine, XInput over bluetooth absolutely essential. The longer the battery life the better. My wife tends to hammer the analog sticks pretty bad and kills them quickly so durability there would be appreciated
Types of games you'll be playing with a controller. Mostly 3rd person single player Action RPGs
Other controllers you're comparing to (demonstrate that you have used the buying advice pages, and searched existing posts). Found 8bitdo pro 2 and Gulikit Es Pro in another thread. Buying guide is pretty light on xinput advice. A lot of posts and websites conflate xinput over USB with xinput over bluetooth as the manufacturers list bluetooth AND xinput support but fail to list that xinput is only over USB.
My questions:
Would like advice on which controllers are the least hassle to get running in Bazzite/Linux over bluetooth (if I have to use a dongle I will but have found them troublesome in the past).
Prefer a cheaper controller I can buy a a bigger after market battery for myself rather than pay a premium for battery life, if there is anything like that out there.
Want something that will run natively through Bazzite or Nobara linux to Steam without intervention.
Durable analog sticks.
Happy to buy from Aliexpress so not worried about stuff just available in NZ. Frankly there's sweet FA available here.
Quick question because this is driving me crazy. I've been using Flydigi controllers for a while (Apex 5, Vader 5 Pro, and just got the Apex 6 Pro Phantom). Across all three, I keep running into the exact same connection issue.
My setup is pretty simple: laptop is a Lenovo LOQ 15IAX9, and the 2.4G dongle is plugged into the charging dock sitting at the corner of my desk. The problem is my playing posture. I usually rest my hands on my lap under the desk.
Whenever I do that, the controller randomly disconnects after a short session. It won't reconnect on its own either—I have to physically unplug and replug the dongle to get it working again, and then it drops again shortly after.
Here's the weird part: I have a GameSir G7 Pro in the exact same setup and posture, and it never drops connection once.
Is Flydigi's 2.4G signal just that weak when there's no direct line of sight? Or could the dock passthrough / USB port on the LOQ be causing the dongle to crash?
The Ultimate 2 Wireless is a great pad, but its config software only runs on Windows. I play on Linux, so I reverse-engineered the app and wrote my own.
It does profiles, remaps every button (the L4/R4 shoulder buttons and PL/PR back paddles too), stick and trigger ranges, rumble strength, gyro, the LED rings, and it shows the battery when you're on the 2.4G dongle. Buttons light up on screen as you press them, which is handy for testing.
It's free and open source (MIT). Beta, only touches settings, tested on my pink one (fw 1.10). I built it with help from an AI assistant and tested everything on the real controller. Not affiliated with 8BitDo.
If you've got an Ultimate 2 in another colour, I'd like to hear if it works for you.
I’m trying to rebind my G7 Pro to its wireless dongle.
I have the Wuchang Edition of the G7 Pro, and I wanted to use it to update a regular G7 Pro wirelessly on Xbox.
To do this, I used GameSir Connect Tool 1.1 to pair the regular dongle with my Wuchang Edition controller.
However, when I tried to reconnect the Wuchang dongle to the Wuchang controller, the receiver was no longer recognized by GameSir Connect Tool 1.1. The dongle’s white LED just keeps flashing rapidly.
Is there any way to fix this? Or is there a newer version of GameSir Connect Tool available?
For reference, the dongle firmware version is 5.1.8.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have a flydgy vader 3 pro. I broke the bumpers. Any idea how to fix them? Its impossible to get a original replacement. Maybe other bumper with spring?
my friend plays emulators on Windows with his Switch Online NES and Famicom pads. Windows sees them, but his games and emulators don't. the only fix he found was reWASD, which he pays for.
so i built 1up, a free and open source app that turns Nintendo pads into Xbox pads.
it reads the Switch Online NES, Famicom and SNES pads, the Switch Pro Controller and the Joy-Cons (N64 and Genesis pads too, drawn as a simple diagram for now). each one becomes a virtual Xbox 360 pad, or keyboard keys if you prefer.
your pad is drawn on screen, every button lights up when you press it, and you click a button to remap it. by default Nintendo's A sits where Xbox's B is, like most emulators expect. "by label" keeps A as A.
one installer, Windows 10 and 11. it also installs ViGEmBus, the driver that creates the virtual Xbox pads (the same one DS4Windows uses).
it's brand new, so feedback helps a lot, especially if you own one of these pads.
it's called 1up, on GitHub as loiclaudet/1up. ask and i'll share the link.
Hey all, got my 8bitdo Ultimate 3E Lavender Dusk recently and I like it overall, almost perfect controller, there is just one thing I don't like - stick travel distance is way too short for me, it's so hard to aim in FPS games.
I was unable to find replacement sticks with different height so I've ordered KontrolFreaks, version for PS4/PS5 as recommended by Deegital Tech, unfortunately they are too loose, they are literally spinning which is distracting during the gameplay.
So my question is, are there any replacement sticks out there or should I try KontrolFreaks for Xbox?
Sorry for the picture quality, light from Philips Hue ;P
Country: Ireland
Budget: I guess it depends? No idea.
I've always wondered whether it would be possible to mod a dualsense by swapping the positions of the left analog stick and the D-pad to achieve an Xbox-style layout. Could this be done by soldering wires to reroute the connections and 3D-printing custom housing parts to accommodate the new layout?
I know that 3rd party compatible controllers with this layout do exist for ps4/5 but I'm only interested in this dualsense modding.
Your country and where you can buy from: United States (Amazon, Best Buy, manufacturer sites)
Console or platform compatibility needed: Xbox Series X|S, Xbox One, and PC
Desired features: Standard Xbox controller size/ergonomics, wireless support is a bonus, clicky/tactile buttons, low latency for racing games (Dirt Rally 2.0, EA Sports WRC)
Types of games you'll be playing: Racing sims and arcade racers, fps, and strategy.
Other controllers you're comparing to: Flydigi Vader 5S, GameSir G7 HE, GameSir G7 Pro
So I have a Gamesir G7 HE which I really like, but wish it was a little bigger. I needed a new controller because my second standard Xbox controller broke. I decided on a Vadar 5s. Now, I really like the Vadar, but out of the box performance, I did better with my HE. While I'm sure I could tune it, I'm wondering if I should have bought a G7 Pro instead.
While I don't require wireless support, it would be nice. However the latency vs a standard Xbox controller is something I'm curious about. If the G7 is a major improvement over the HE then maybe I should try it, but if it's basically an HE (in size with slightly different features), I'm not sure if it's worth the purchase and I should just stick with the Vadar. It would be nice if someone here has tried all 3 and which ones they preferred.
I've been a PC Keyboard & Mouse (KBM) player my whole life, especially for FPS games. Unfortunately, due to an issue with my right wrist, I can no longer use a mouse comfortably for gaming. The good news is that holding a controller gives me zero pain, so I just picked up a GameSir G7 SE (managed to snag it for $6 on Temu!) to start making the transition.
Since I'm essentially relearning how to aim from scratch with my thumbs, I wanted to ask you guys for some advice:
Best G7 SE settings for FPS:
What deadzones, response curves, and polling rate settings do you recommend in the GameSir Nexus app (or in-game) for someone coming from a raw mouse input background? Should I use Raw mode or default circular?
Practice routines & building muscle memory:
How did you get comfortable with micro-adjustments and tracking on Hall Effect sticks? Are there any specific routines, aim trainers, or drills you recommend so I don't over-aim all the time?
Matching sensitivity across different games:
On mouse, it's really easy to keep the same muscle memory across different shooters using "cm/360" calculators or sites like mouse-sensitivity. How do you guys handle this on a controller when every game has different look mechanics, acceleration, and response curves (Linear vs Dynamic/Exponential)?
Any tips, settings, or personal experiences from others who made the jump from KBM to controller would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I have about 4 PS3 controllers, including a Scuf that do not work 100%, there's issues with drift, analog sticking, buttons not registering amongst others, is it worth sending them off to a repair specialist or is it better to just scrap them?
• Core information:
• Make and model of the controller you are trying to repair
Wireless controller for Xbox one / MODEL 1708
• Description of the problem and symptoms
• Context:
• How the problem occurred and events leading up to it
-not entirely sure, most likely dropped while plugged in
• What you've tried so far to narrow down or solve the problem
- tried gently moving the port to see if I could get it to be able to tightly hold the cable again
• Console/device, operating system, and games/software involved
- Xbox One
• Images and videos:
• Clear pictures of broken parts, suspected components/circuits, and soldering
• Gamepad tester results
-No idea what this refers to lol, it does work when plugged in though. It just has to be in a super precise spot.
• Additional information:
• Hardware, firmware, and software versions/revisions involved
-Again, I’m not exactly sure what is being referred to here.
• Tools you have access to (screwdrivers, multimeter, soldering iron, etc.)
- I have lots of small screwdrivers, a small soldering iron, andddd numerous other small tools. I do not, however, have the ability to replace the port, so please refrain from suggesting this.
• Your country, if you are asking about repair services or spare parts
-N/A I’m not able to secure replacement parts, please do not suggest this.
So I ordered my first controller cosmic byte blitz (the new one with tmr sticks and gyro) I recently got old laptop and I have been gaming since and I got around to order it cuz sekiro and dead cells both required precise timing which keyboard fails to give anyhoo is there suggestions or something I should know ? I'm nervous if I'll be able to use it properly...
I'm looking for a good controller. I recently bought the 8BitDo Ultimate 2 and I really liked it, it's simple and comfortable but the Home button light is unbearable and you can't turn it off. What a shame. Every time I look for another controller I can't find anything like 8BitDo. They give you a charging dock and almost all the features of expensive controllers for a great price but that light is driving me crazy, it's literally like a flashlight. Most other controllers look like spaceships with weird and ugly designs. Is it really that hard to make a simple controller without all these RGB lights? I just want something like the Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller, it has very small and dim lights on the front that don't bother me at all, but I want Hall Effect sticks. Any recommendations?
Budget: Around $70–100
Country: Saudi Arabia, can order from Amazon or international stores
Platform: PC
Features: Wireless, Hall Effect sticks, simple design, minimal lighting, preferably a charging dock
Games: Mostly MMOs games
Controllers I'm considering: GameSir G7 Pro and Flydigi Vader 5 Pro
These are the four layout arrangements I've created for the GK-21 leverless controller by GuileKeys, designed to get as close as possible to parity with a standard console controller for playing non-fighting games. Imagine using a controller that had been flattened out by a steamroller, it's kind of like that. The Switch Pro Controller is used as the example in the images, but note that the same logic also applies to PlayStation, Xbox (and PC) since their layouts are identical.
One of these profiles should work with almost any game depending on its control scheme:
RS Type: A different design philosophy from the others built around shooters. The Right Stick keys form a diamond in the center, with RS Click inside of it and the most important face buttons above. LS Click is to the lower left for sprinting, and the two bumpers are along the right edge as a dedicated zone for single-press actions like weapon swaps and grenades. The left and right triggers are positioned so they can be easily pressed simultaneously with all other keys, since they're the most important.
A and B Type: For platformers, action games, RPGs, racing games, and most other genres. There are duplicated face buttons on each of the first two rows so any combination of them you'd ergonomically press on a normal controller is possible. Use the WASD-style resting position or cross between the rows, and the third button you'll need will always be available.
C Type: "Offbeat" version of A and B. The face buttons don't follow the same flow from the second to first row due to how the relationship between the west, south, and north buttons are prioritized. This is the more niche one.
Note: On profiles A-C, using the left and right bumpers can be finicky. Pressing L + LS Down will require you to hold the latter input with your right thumb since your left will be occupied. To press R simultaneously with the face buttons you will pinch it with your thumb, leaving your other fingers free above. Press R with your pointer finger to gain simultaneous access to the Right Stick keys.
On all profiles, the D-Pad modifier is considered to be a bonus. It's useful primarily when the D-Pad is used alone and not in combination with any other buttons.
—
If you want to try it out, you can download a preconfigured backup file from my GitHub and install the profiles using the built-in configurator.
A: A WASD-style arrangement would admittedly be ideal, but this controller doesn't allow for it. I think having a dedicated finger for every Left Stick direction provides an advantage in terms of control in any case.
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Q: Why the need for dedicated Right Stick keys? Can't you use a modifier for that?
A: Moving and aiming the camera at the same time is essential in 3D games, and camera control can also make up for the angles digital inputs can't reach.
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Q: No Left Stick angle modifiers? How am I supposed to hit those in-between diagonals?
A: That was unfortunately not an option. In a 3D game, you can use the camera to micro-adjust your positioning and take advantage of "assisted turning" mechanics if they're available (where the character gradually turns from one direction to the next instead of the motion being instantaneous). In other cases you'll be tapping or "fluttering" in the direction you want to move. Mastering these techniques can give you more control than you'd think.
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Q: Why are you doing this?
A: I just don't like analog sticks, so I decided to look into using a leverless as a substitute for my main controller, only to find a greater degree of control and utility than I initially expected. The GK-21's compact vertical key arrangement allows more simultaneous button combinations than other controllers I've tried before, such as the Superslab by Prong Studio, and more traditional fightsticks just didn't have enough keys. This is a project years in the making, finally brought to completion.
I saw this picture in the official flydigi discord. The poster said this:
"You really used these cheap switches on a next-gen controller for the back buttons, which we press a lot? What kind of stupid decision is this? Only 50k cycles for an expensive controller?! I hope you consider it again before you launch the Vader 6 Pro, or I'll switch to the ZD Ultimate Legend; it's better in everything: 8K polling rate, 0.50ms latency maybe lower, different types of TMR sticks with tension adjustment, and 8 extra buttons"
Is there any other way to verify if the flydigi apex 6 has bad switches like this guy claim? Someone from flydigi commented on the post too. They said:
"Are you referring to the Vader 6 Pro or the Apex 6 Pro? If it's the former, there is no detailed information available yet, so please wait for the official announcement from the team. If it's the latter, we recommend making a rational judgment and gathering comprehensive feedback from other sources and users before deciding"
Which to me is really sketchy because I feel like if the controller wasn't using cheap switches they would deny it immediately.
All of this isn't verified, but it seems pretty convincing to me.
Has anyone had the luxury of trying out both of these back paddles? Just curious which one you think is better or rather if they're both of equal quality. I'm somewhat concerned that the Extreme rate paddles sit a little too high on the controller for my liking but maybe it's fine idk. (1st pic is the extreme rate kit, 2nd is the Scuf reflex)
I'm real big on quality paddles (never buttons) that are low profile, easy to press and responsive. The Scuf instinct/valor pro back paddles have gone too far in the low profile direction and just don't feel good IMO. The Scuf reflex is by far my favorite back paddle design since it's out of the way and well placed.
I'm considering a new controller and potentially just customizing my own dualsense to my liking, I see the extreme rate beyond back paddles kit is fairly similar to the Scuf reflex design but haven't been able to try for myself.
