Hi!

I have a question: I enjoy riding routes with a lot of elevation gain, but I tend to run out of gears on the steeper climbs. I was wondering if I could simply install an 11–46 cassette on my Apex 1 drivetrain, or if it wouldn’t work properly.

I know it’s only officially rated for up to 11–42, but would using an 11–46 cassette cause any major issues?

Thanks!

Не могу понять что за рама от ns bikes, это либо сабурбан либо маджести, помогите понять пожалуйста.

I can't figure out what kind of frame this is from NS Bikes. Is it a Suburban or a Majesty? Please help me figure it out.

69er 1x8 conversion for bike packing

Next to go on is a 40t single speed crank set and a long cage rear derailer

Current rear cassette is an 8 speed 11t_46t

Hi. I'm trying to fit My 240 road DT swiss hub, 12mm to a 15mm thru axle fork, I'm trying to find an adapter kit with 2 inserts and a 12mm axle.

The BT-FK-003 fork has a thru-axle with these specs:

I have seen some kits, but have not been able to confirm specs, no manufacturers, or suppliers have got back to Me ,except Bombtrack, the manufacturer of the fork, with this info. I will consider new wheels if it comes to it. Any help greatly appreciated. I hope this falls under repair, I'm replacing a cracked frame, and have run into some issues.

Hello! Just got my first road bike, it's a Malvern Star from the 90s I believe. I'm wanting to upgrade it for an overnight bikepacking trip at the end of the year. I'm looking for a frame bag but most of the ones I find online are boring haha. I love pink and purple so if anyone can help point me in the right direction to find some! I'd also love to support small businesses if you know any!

help with the components of a street mtb project

I have a rather silly dilemma. I'm 174 cm tall and I'm working on a street mountain bike project. I'm planning to have a custom-made chromoly fork. The dilemma is whether to get an ATC 430mm A2C fork with a Title ST1 stem and Title AH1 handlebars, or a 430mm A2C fork with NS Discric handlebars, or a 440mm A2C fork with the same Title ST1 stem and AH1 handlebars. It's a bit of a silly dilemma; I don't really like the look of high handlebars like the 87mm rise ones, but I'm worried my bike will look too low from the front. Also, the NS Discric is chromoly and the AH1 is aluminum. Below are my current geometry settings, with a 460mm A2C at rest and a 450mm sag. What worries me most is that I'm going to use a fully rigid setup, so I don't know if it will affect or condition the handlebar material, since aluminum tends to be somewhat rigid and chromoly tends to absorb vibrations better, and although I don't really like the high handlebar look, I also don't know if the title configuration will be too low and lack leverage, making it less responsive. I welcome suggestions for changes or other A2C. Btw, the measurements below are at rest, not with sag.

Wb=1020mm

Tt=560mm y ETT= 570MM\~

Cs=38,5mm

Reach=425mm

BB Drop=15mm

ST=32,5mm

HT=100mm

A2C=460mm rest, 450mm SAG

Stack=560mm\~

Bb hight=31cm

ST angle=73°

HT angle=71°

Please excuse my English, I'm not a native speaker, but you can write to me in English and I'll translate it. Ty.

I used to track my bike build in Google Sheets, but eventually got tired of it and built BikeDialed, a bike weight calculator and build planner.

Curious how others handle this when planning a build or comparing upgrades — Google Sheets/Excel, an online calculator like VeloWeight or BikeChamp, or just a scale once it’s built?

What works for you, and what’s missing?

Edit: Added some context about how the app started.

I recently bought an older 2Danger Cross SL cross/fitness bike for €30, probably from around 2006. The aluminium frame seems to be in decent condition, but the wheels are bent, the gears sometimes slip, and the V-brakes feel weak.

My original idea was to modernize the bike as much as possible. I considered disc brakes, tubeless wheels, and a 2×10 drivetrain. After looking into compatibility and costs, I decided that keeping things simpler would probably give me a better result for the money.

My goal is to turn it into a reliable, reasonably fast bike for everyday riding, longer trips, and mixed road/gravel use, including wet and colder weather. I want stronger wheels, dependable braking, smoother shifting, and slightly higher top-end gearing without replacing good components unnecessarily.

The bike currently has a 3×9 drivetrain with a 48/38/28 crankset, a Shimano XT RD-M760 SGS rear derailleur, Shimano Deore shifters, 700C wheels, and V-brakes. I rarely use the smallest front chainring, which is why I'm considering switching to 2×9.

My proposed parts are:

- Wheels: Vuelta Airtec 622-21 rim-brake wheelset, 36 spokes, Shimano Deore HB-T610/FH-T610 hubs, 100/135 mm quick release — €95 for the pair.

- Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon 365, 47-622, with regular inner tubes.

- Brakes: Keep the existing V-brakes but fit Kool-Stop Salmon pads and inspect the cables.

- Crankset: Shimano Sora FC-R3000 50/34, with the appropriate Hollowtech II bottom bracket.

- Cassette: Shimano CS-HG400-9, 11–34T.

- Chain: Shimano CN-HG93 or KMC X9 EPT.

- Rear derailleur: Keep the existing Shimano XT RD-M760 SGS, but replace its two jockey wheels with the compatible Shimano pulley set Y-5X998150.

- Shifters: Ideally keep the existing 9-speed rear shifter and, if possible, the current front shifter.

The thinking behind this setup is that the 36-spoke Deore wheelset should be a solid durability upgrade, while keeping the existing XT derailleur avoids spending money on a completely new drivetrain. Moving from a 48T to a 50T large chainring would also give me a modest increase in top-end gearing.

I initially hoped to keep the entire rebuild around €200, although replacing everything listed above will probably push me beyond that. I'm trying to spend more only where it makes a noticeable difference.

Before buying, I'd really appreciate some advice from people with experience rebuilding older bikes:

1. Will a Shimano Sora 50/34 road crankset work properly with my existing Deore triple front derailleur and front shifter, or would I need to replace those too?

2. Is 50/34 with an 11–34 cassette a sensible combination for a mixed-use bike with a 9-speed XT rear derailleur?

3. The current rear wheel uses a 135 mm nutted axle. Assuming the frame has standard open dropouts, is switching to a 135 mm quick-release hub straightforward?

4. Are there any other compatibility issues I might be overlooking, especially with the bottom bracket or chainline?

5. Would you choose these parts, or is there a more cost-effective way to rebuild this bike?

I still need to confirm the bottom-bracket shell dimensions, rear dropout compatibility, and frame/fork clearance for 47 mm tyres.

I'm posting because I'd like a final sanity check from experienced cyclists and mechanics before spending money on parts that might not work together. I'm not trying to build a high-end bike—just make an inexpensive older bike genuinely enjoyable and dependable to ride.

So I have a Seek 2 that has been sitting in my garage for forever. I rode it last 16 years ago, and probably have less than 500 km total on it, but recently I have been getting back into biking a lot more and I remembered this has just been sitting in the garage. I remember having a good time on this bike, but I would like to modernize it a bit, but I really don't know what is possible.

I'm not looking for anything crazy, aside from a complete overhaul/safety inspection, my thought was to change it into a 1x10 transmission, probably CUES U6000. It has mechanical diskbrakes which worked fine when I last rode it, aside from getting the pads/cables changed not sure if that needs anything as well. If I did upgrade the brakes my preference would be Shimano hydraulic since that is what my current bike has and I find it quite good.

Is there anything else I should be looking at, or may have forgotten? Is the transmission swap feasible?

It is a very basic bike but I have always loved the very utilitarian look it has (and I am a sucker for the bare metal top bar accent).

Bought a donor bike today, a 1985 Panasonic ATB with a beat up frame but decent components. I took the friction shimano shifters, DC brake levers and cantilever brakes for the Ibex. Still haven’t decided on crank and BB. I have three cranks I can choose from. Cables and housings arrive tomorrow, I’ll get the brakes all set up, I still need to service the wheel hubs too.

Here's a repost of a topic I started about building my own vintage bike

My Dahon bike has a three-speed hub.

Actually, I only ever use the lowest gear, number one.

The front chainring has 39 teeth, and the rear one has 14.

My question is: how many teeth should I replace the front chainring with, so that I can cycle normally in second gear?

Hi all,

I bought this 1994(?) specialized allez about 18 months ago for £40 and spent a further £40 on little bits and pieces needed to get it rideable. I don’t do any serious mileage on it, just commuting and getting around the city.

Where I live is very hilly and the old 7 speed cassette can be hard work on steep climbs. What’s going to be the most budget friendly way of getting some more sympathetic gear ratios? Ideally I’d like to spend no more than £100 or so.

Is getting a used groupset off a newer bike going to be possible with this sort of budget? I’m new to this so any advice or recommendations on things to look out for would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks