I live in Clanton Alabama, home of the massive peach water tower, whole town is know for growing peaches. I have 60 peach pits from these local peaches, all saved jusr from a month and a half of me and my nieces and nephews eating them this summer.

Ive read some about growing them, but I learn best from direct anecdotal info, first my gardening background, in a small backyard in the “ghetto” in Birmingham AL, over the last 4 years I grew 1500 plus tomatoes, 20lbs of green beans, 12 watermelon, 16 ear of corn, hundred of squash and zucchini, and probably a thousand peppers, so I am pretty good at gardening I’d think

Ive read a little that said to dry them on the counter, then freeze for 8-12 weeks, then plant in late February, does that sound right? Should I crack them open before I freeze or before I put in soil, I plan to plant two orchards of 20-30 trees each at my moms house, and my dads house,and maybe a dozen in large pots to gift.

I am 31 and have a 7 year old, but I’m the oldest of 9 and a lot of us have little ones, I want this to be something great that they all remember growing up:)

Any and all advice please and thank you! I’m eating about a dozen of these a weekend with the kids so I’ll have close to 100 pits by the end of October.

Now the perry pear trees have blossomed I thought it would be worth taking a look at the journey the pollen takes from the stigma to fertilise the ovule.
After being brushed off the bumblebee coat and trapped by the sticky fluid on the stigma, it rehydrates using the stigmatic fluids. The inner wall (intine) of the pollen swells and pushes through a thin spot in the outer wall (exine) allowing the vegetative cell to form the pollen tube. While it starts as just one cell in a microscopic pollen grain the pollen tube can grow up to several centimetres long to reach the plant's ovary, making it one of the longest single cells in the plant kingdom. Inside this single, stretching cell, there is a moving stream of cytoplasm that carries three structures down toward the ovule. The vegetative nucleus which controls the growth and metabolism of the tube. And two sperm cells. These are distinct cells and carried inside the vegetative cell.
Because it is a single cell growing only at its forward point, it relies entirely on the precise tip-growth mechanics mediated by pectin dynamics to elongate without breaking.
As the tube extends blockades called callose plugs form behind it to keep the contents pushing forward. The pollen tube enters the ovary locule and makes a sharp turn over the obturator, an outgrowth of the funiculus tissue near the ovule. The obturator provides both physical direction and chemical signals to help the pollen tube successfully locate and penetrate the micropyle or opening of the ovule.
Once guided to the micropyle, specialized cells inside the female ovule called synergids take over the final short-range attraction of the pollen tube. The tube then penetrates a synergid cell which then degenerates and bursts open to release the two sperm nuclei, setting up the double fertilisation. The fertilised ovule then rapid grows and the surrounding ovary and hypanthium as seen here.

*** Pomper's Choice **\*
*** Corner Pocket **\*
*** KSU-Benson **\*
Benson more details:
Benson makes awesome seedlings:
*** KSU-Dunnigan **\*
Susquehanna sibling PPF 5-5, Mississippi vigorous!!!
Mississippi post 2
PPF 5-5 pic, Mississippi post#3
Tom Wahl's (Shenandoah x Susquehanna)
*** KSU Chappell, most vigorous **\*
*** Sri Gold aka Vishnu **\*
I'm the Mod of r/Pawpaws & an expert in agronomy & adapting species to soil, companion planting & pawpaw cultivars.
I can assist you at selecting the correct cultivar for both your flavor preference & environment.

I planted this tree a few weeks ago and well…it looks like this now.

I know it’s fungal. I bought some myclobutanil, but everything I’m reading says not to spray this time of year? Should I spray or will it just take care of itself over the winter and I spray in the spring?

Any help is appreciated!

Here is one of roughly 4 apple/peach trees. I would say it and the rest are 8 to 9 feet tall

From my understanding, the knee high technique is more so for whips and might not be a good idea for trees so tall already

Would you knee high cut these newly planted trees? If so, when timing wise?

So, I just planted a few apples and peaches

Got the book everyone recommended " grow a little fruit tree"

And I just have to think a knee high cut on an 8 to 9 ft tree already will have to kill it.

What do i need to know before this prune? As much as everyone talks up the book, it doesn't hsve great directions

Hi everyone! I’m a newly certified gardener and expanded my vegetable garden this past year. As I move toward more food independence, I want to plant more fruit trees and fruiting shrubs. I have identified a very sunny spot of lawn (8-10 hours of sun per day in summer) that I have covered in cardboard and woodchips to prepare for planting next spring. It’s roughly 30x30 feet on a very gentle slope on the North East side of my front yard.

I definitely want to grow apple trees, and use strawberries as ground cover. I’m also interested in raspberries, grapes, blackberries, and additional fruit trees (I also have 6 blueberry bushes in pots). What varieties do you recommend? What resources (books, YouTube channels, etc) do you recommend I study for care? I do organic gardening, but I assume I will need to spray trees, so what treatments do you recommend? I also have deer to contend with and can’t build higher than a 4 foot fence, so also welcome tips for deterring them.

I’ve been lurking in this subreddit for a while, but I haven’t found any direct advice on how to get started, so forgive me if I missed that thread and please direct me to it. I live in NJ, Zone 6b/7a depending on the year.

I have a standard size apple tree that I planted in 2019. I believe it was a 2 yo tree at that point. It has never flowered.

I've pretty much only planted dwarfs before. Should I keep waiting? Why doesn't it flower?

My young guava tree is flowering and starting to fruit again in mid-October. It first flowered in late spring/early summer, but unfortunately, none of the flowers developed into fruit.

The tree is growing outdoors in a Mediterranean climate in northeastern Spain.

Is this second flowering normal? Is there a chance the fruits will develop and ripen before winter, or is it too late in the season?

Thanks for any advice!

Planted this Kudos Apple tree two weeks ago, noticed the base is looking a little different. Is this dying? I’m zone 4b mn. Thank you

Two Snow Sweets and an Akane. Located in Chicagoland. Poor things have been happy as clams all year long then all of a sudden I noticed this. It doesn't come off like Powdery Mildew so I'd be surprised if it's that, but I'd like y'all's opinion.

I came up with an idea to keep rabbits away using cola cans, but I haven’t proven that it works yet.

Nine weeks ago I did some simple whip grafting this Spring. This is of a wild pear rootstock ( Mt Biggs 2) supplied by a friend Eric Cairns. Now the vegetative buds are starting to swell and will produce leaves soon. Grafted on to Beurre Hardy. #grafting #pear

I'm new to fruit trees. A year or two ago I bought a Warwickshire Drooper on a pixy rootstock. I staked the tree as it came as a tiny stick, and have a new branch very low down and which has different sized leaves, and I think one is the Drooper and one is from the rootstock. I'm not sure which to cut off though! I waited till the bark was a bit thicker and I could see the graft more clearly but I'm still not sure.

I have a 40 x20 space in Woodstock Georgia.

Was debating on planting 2 apple and 2 peaches.

Or do 2 peaches , 2 apples and add 4 more maybe pear or plums and try to dwarf them all. It would still give me 10x10 areas roughly but I worry I could fuck it up and get nothing at all from the trees.

Thoughts? Which route would you go?

I noticed some frayed buds? Haven’t had fruit of this tree yet, and did 2 summer prunings this year to promote fruit spurs… but maybe the last one was a little too late in the season?

This is off of two trees and there’s a lot left unpicked. 2nd season and we’re appreciating them more and more!

This is planted in my backyard next to an apple tree. I just purchased this home in July so I've not seen what it looks like through the seasons. I've not seen any blooms or fruit. This is in NEPA.

For the 3rd year in a row my fig trees have so many figs - that are unlikely to ripen before first frost toward end of October. Could I throw painters sheet plastic over them? Anything else to keep them protected until the figs can ripen? Btw, I have tried pruning and pinching smaller fruit to accelerate the process - doesn’t help.

Hi yall! I need your help!

First off, I am renting in Anchorage Alaska. So theres not much land for me to plant these but id like to take care of them.

I was recently gifted two saplings in pots. They are from an extension workshop and are apples grafted onto something else. They did really well in the pots outside all summer. But now as its getting cold and dark i dont know what to do with them!

At this size should they be put in the ground? Or should i uppot them and take care of them inside this winter?

Thanks for any advice!