Even though I got unlucky with 24 CU max, it still performs great in 4k! No stutters and great performance (unlike my rusty-ass skill) in Wii Sports Resort Golf, which is surprisingly hard to run at 6x Native plus upscaling. Forza Horizon 5 ran good as well at 4k medium settings and CS2 ran good enough when I hooked this up to my monitor for me not to notice any major stutters/lag.

Max temps were 83C on the cpu and 69Cish on the gpu (nice) on a combined furmark/prime95 test with 6C 24CU and 1850mhz gpu clock.

Thank you u/Ohgodwhatdididonow for selling me this case! This is not paid, but check out his post here here if don't have a 3d printer and want a unified solution. Build quality was great, super nice guy, and he includes everything you need: case, fan, VRAM fans, power button, 500W psu, and PCIE 8pin + microfit cables.

Side note: I'm planning to make an app that combines different emulation launchers for Nintendo Switch, Wii (u), DS, SNES, PS3, maybe Xbox360, and any other popular consoles I'm forgetting about. If you're interested, please say so!

First of all I would like to say thank you to this community you all are so wonderful and super helpful

I got a bc250 rig recently off marketplace and it works perfectly except for being very loud. It has a corsair liquid cooler for the CPU and 7 other fans. 2 exhaust fans on the top, 2 on the back of the board, and an array of 3 in the middle of the case.

Originally all of these were plugged directly into the power supply so they were running at 100%. I got a 4 pin y splitter to connect both cooling system radiator fans to the motherboard so I could set up a power curve for them as they were making the bulk of the noise

This worked perfectly and the system is much quieter now but Im wondering if I can get rid of the triple fan array in the middle of the case. CPU and GPU temps have been completely fine even with all 8 cores plus 40 CU running at 1850 MHZ.

The only thing im worried about are the VRMS as I have seen that they get super hot if they don’t have enough air flow. First pic is the original setup second is without the triple fan array.

Does this look fine to you guys and thank you so much for the help

I run a BC-250 as a living-room gaming PC on Bazzite, and I wanted it in Home Assistant. So I built bc250-ha-bridge: one Python script (standard library only, no pip, no containers) that publishes the board to HA over MQTT with auto-discovery.

Sensors: CPU/GPU/NVMe temps, GPU clock and load, pump RPM, RAM/swap/disk, uptime, current Steam game, active CUs, configured voltage, governor throttle temp.

Controls: Sleep, Reboot, Shut down, Restart Steam, switch Game/Desktop mode, close the current game, plus an Advanced GPU min/max clock range with a reset button.

Wake on LAN works from sleep and from shutdown on my board (r8169 NIC, NetworkManager setting in the README). That means the machine can be woken from HA, not only with the power button.

It also ships a ready-made dashboard (built-in cards only, screenshots in the README).

Safety notes, because this is an overclocked board:

• The GPU clock control goes through the cyan-skillfish-governor-smu runtime D-Bus interface. It is not persisted, so a reboot resets it, and the limits are enforced in the script, not only in HA.
• The default ceiling (2200 MHz) is what I tested on my own board. Set your own with BRIDGE_CLOCK_CEIL.
• Voltage and CU count are read-only on purpose. A wrong value can hang the board and there is no runtime interface for them anyway.
• Commands come from a fixed whitelist. MQTT payloads never reach a shell.

What’s tested and what isn’t: sensors, Sleep, Game/Desktop switching and Wake on LAN are tested. Close game, Reboot, Restart Steam and the Advanced clock controls are still being tested, so treat them as beta and try them with nothing important running. GPU load is a 30 s average, not a live gauge.

Repo (MIT): https://github.com/phiiaz/bc250-ha-bridge

Feedback and PRs welcome, especially from people on other distros or with different NICs and BIOS versions.

Monitor added, got the idea from old lamer’s video on YouTube, but instead I used one of those cheap yellow esp32 screens.

Very new to reddit but this reddit is the one that inspired me to take the plunge and actually build a BC250.

Metal fish open case

Metal fish 500w flex psu

24 Pin breakout board, has a power switch for psu and also 12v and ground for the molex connector.

Ptm7950

Over clock on CPU 4000Mhz

40 Gpu cores unlocked running at 2000Mhz

Stable temps with duel fan on the front as well as fan on the back with added heatsink.

Forza Horizon 6 running at 1440p High at a solid 60 FPS

Cyberpunk High/medium 70-80Fps

Any opinions or tips on how to make it better are greatly appreciated!

I think this is a great idea, and could grow to something very useful if we submit our findings to it.

https://bc250db.com/

Thanks u/Daivit_Charles

Bc250, psu and aio board and all needed connections yada yada perfect working order, selling as spare project that ive lost interest in. Sold without hard drive. Includes frame. Collection preferred in durham UK but will post anywhere provided buyer covers costs. £300 sound good?

Yesterday decided to move from Bazzite to SteamOS and it was fine. Updated to latest Preview.

I also wanted to repaste it as my ordered thermal pads arrived. Opened it, applied pads, and after that the board turned o for a second and then shutdown itself.

Decided to try the old pads, first front ones, still the same, then the backplate pads, and now it is stuck on green light, fan don't spin, no video, no heat. Keyboard rgb turn on but don't respond to caps lock.

What I've tried:
-Looking for loose components (found nothing)
-Test with different PSU (same)
-Remove Cmos
-Remove Cmos and move pins to CLRCmos
-Press power on, reset buttons for a minute

Nothing changed, so asking if someone had similar problem and how can I solve it. Thanks in advance.

-Update1: Tried with pressure but the same

I'm very new to this DIY stuff and I just bought the BC250, it should arrive by next week, and I see a lot of posts here either removing or 'disfiguring' the heatsink.
Anyway, the BC250 wasn't cheap for my budget LOL, so I don't really want to risk breaking it, could someone at least tell me about the procedure or if this is really necessary?

Have been looking at building one for the last few months but when the price jumped up decided to wait for a good deal. Got lucky when u/LectureFew8351 posted a few weeks ago not too far from me for a great price. Took a little drive up to collect and after he showed me a stable board running Bazzite I was happy.

Was looking for something to use for emulation without taking up space, so found this case to get printed by u/Lito_ which turned out great. If you need 3D prints doing definitely recommend him, great service and always a good price too.

While waiting for the case I got CachyOS set up, 8C/40CU unlock, and made my own Microfit cable to help keep the overclock stable. Temps are cool thanks to PTM7950 on the APU and Upsiren UTP-8 on everything else. The middle of the heatsink opened up and two Artic P12 fans to move air, 1tb internal with a second 1tb nvme in an enclosure for more space. Finished off with a WiFi/Bluetooth antenna, and a Wolverine DualSense to go with it and the little emulation station is complete.

Library so far is set up with PS2 and GameCube games with texture packs, but handles PC games reasonably well too. Overall happy with how this turned out.

is there anywhere in the uk i can just buy a cable or something, i dont want to make a custom adapter to be honest, if anyone knows a reputable place to buy with the correct pin layout let me know!

Hi everyone,

So I've been using my BC250 for some time now, 8 cores unlock with the custom -f, 40 compute units unlocked as well. But I've been using my own computer psu, a evga supernova g2 for powering it.

I want the machine to have its own psu, I've looked for the popular options but because I live in the EU most are way to expensive due to shipping and import costs.

So I ended up buying a HP HSTNS-PL28
How can I get this to work? Most guides say I need a breakout board but there are so many...
Can I use my 8pin to 6+2 cable from my power supply?

Ok so this weekend you'll see three new cases on maker world. Cub Ice V2/ Project 5 / and Cub ice twin. You haven't seen Cub twin yet so I thought I'd introduce it now.

Get those printers ready and enjoy the files 🙏

Anyone know a 3d printed case for bc for that aio? Or anything

The news :

https://www.phoronix.com/news/Easy-Anti-Cheat-Better-Linux

Hey, I'm the creator of this case.

Since not everyone likes those cheap, small Chinese USB hubs (where only one port is USB 3.0 and the other three are just 2.0), I created a new version (4.3) of the case designed for better hubs (such as Anker and others from Amazon). It supports both FlexATX and HP server power supplies.
https://www.amazon.pl/dp/B07L32B9C2?th=1

https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3439810-bc-250-case-v4-3-for-anker-usb-hub-hp-server-psu

I know that this isn't strictly BC250 related but I'm tearing my hair out trying to find a solution. Tried all the various Steam Subreddits.

I want to remote play from my BC250 to my Steam Deck and my PC. I've managed to get everything setup where I can choose to run the game remotely. The only issue is that when I run the game it is zoomed in to the top left hand corner on the Steam Deck and even my PC. This is clearly a resolution issue but I cannot find any option to match the clients resolution. I've literally been trying to fix this for almost 2 weeks now.

I have even tried enabling the new Pyrowave streaming option as well but I still get the same problem.

Dear BC250 community,

I'd like to use my Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE cooler. I found on the unofficial community guide on github that Dartzon was able to mount it using a 3D-printed bracket, but I was not able to find the file for the bracket anywhere. :/

Would love to know if there are any brackets specifically made for the PA120 out there!

Best regards,

ven

Performance is looking pretty good at solid 60fps
Compared to my steam deck at 40-50 with occasional 60, pretty impressive for this simple device

Hi,
Thought I also share my built.
Works extremely well. Not the smallest case possible.

240mm radiator
Printed AIO
Original heatsink for the rest of the board

2x120mm fans for intake
2x120mm fans for out through radiator
ATP PSU
Corsair commander Duo
Ugreen AX900 for WiFi and Bluetooth
Ugreen USB hub

1900MHz GPU with 40 CU
3800MHz CPU with all cores
Never seen above 55C with fans around 40-50%

To come: ESP32 handling momentary power button and ATX PSU Power On (planing via optocoupler), with 5V standby rail powering the ESP32 and power state sensing from BC250 board via the TPM header (maybe also optocoupler).

Edit: new thermal putty of course and PTM on the APU.

https://youtu.be/g-bqY6DsPLg

https://youtu.be/0dtphG-BLkM

Pour ceux qui doutent de mes résultats avec l'AMD BC-250 sur FurMark (8700 points / ~145 FPS en 1080p), voici la preuve en image avec un terminal sensors ouvert à côté pendant le benchmark.

Le kit BC-250 (architecture Cyan Skillfish, puce PS5 recyclée) souffre d'un bug de lecture des registres très connu sous Linux (pilote amdgpu) :

• La valeur vddnb est bloquée à 655.35 V (ce qui correspond au maximum brut 0xFFFF du registre non initialisé par le pilote). C'est ce même bug de registre qui fait bugger MangoHud à 655 % d'utilisation.
• La consommation moyenne (PPT avg) reste bloquée à 8.00 W par erreur alors que la carte consomme ses ~230W max en pic.
• La température GPU affichée par FurMark (38°C-41°C) est également fausse. La vraie sonde thermique fiable se trouve sur la ligne Tctl (+59.9°C) dans la section CPU, ce qui prouve bien que la puce est en pleine charge et qu'il ne s'agit pas d'un benchmark au repos ou truqué.

La fréquence est parfaitement stable à 2000 MHz réels. C'est du hardware brut, pas un fake ! 😉