Guess who: bracket edition. 2015 Honda odyssey. Looked in fender inner structure and rad support. How could a simple bolt on bracket not be replaceable? No part # on it. Maybe I’m blind or dumb but I can’t find this to save my life. I would’ve had an easier time just grabbing one from a junk yard. Surely someone else has run into this issue and found the right one?

Hi everyone! Last week, my wife was rear-ended while stopped at a complete stop. She was driving our 2025 Subaru Forester with only 22,000 miles when a 2007 Toyota Tacoma hit her at approximately 30–40 mph. Thankfully, she’s okay overall, though she has some shoulder and wrist pain.
I’ve attached a few photos of the damage. The area around the spare tire was pushed inward and upward significantly, so we’re concerned there may be substantial structural damage underneath. Because of that, we’re wondering whether the Forester will be totaled.
The insurance company’s initial repair is $10,440, but it was based only on photos and doesn’t include any hidden damage. The repair shop plans to begin disassembling the rear later today or tomorrow.
At this point, I’m hoping the vehicle is totaled. Given the severity of the impact and the possibility of structural damage, I wouldn’t feel comfortable driving it again, even after repairs.

Took it down to bare metal. Epoxy primer, body filler work, epoxy primer again. And now the filler is showing through! I did about 2 heavy coats. I plan to paint tomorrow because after tomorrow it’ll get too cold to paint. So I’m kind of in a time crunch. How do I seal this so it doesn’t show up when I spray base/clear? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

How do I get primer beneath the stand off to prevent rust….

Before we start, insurance wants to total it. I want to keep the car 😮‍💨

Just looking for advice. If anyone has repaired damage this bad? Tips to solve in steps? Could I get someone to pull this dent out first, then maybe get someone later to do whatever step is needed next. Or any temp way to fix or cover damage?

The car is a 2019 Genesis G70, it’s drivable, sensors are still working, and low mileage so I plan to get some more good years out of her. Thanks in advance.

Honda civic 2012 with passenger rocker damage from riding over a rock. Quoted $700-750 for slip ons and double for “factory” (weld in?)

Just curious if I should get a stud welder and puller on this first or if it’s shot.

I have a 6-month-old Toyota Corolla in black metallic paint with a small chip, roughly the size of a fingernail, in the middle of the driver's-side door panel. I've attached close-up and wider photos.

My girlfriend brought the car to the Toyota dealership for scheduled maintenance. When she got it back, we noticed this chip on the door.

They reviewed their camera footage of the car arriving but said it was too dark to determine whether the damage was present. They are pointing to workshop footage timestamped about an hour after they had received the car, which shows the chip. Unfortunately, we don't have a clear before-and-after photo proving when it happened.

Regardless of the disagreement over responsibility, I'm trying to determine the most appropriate repair.

The chip has been exposed for approximately five months, and I haven't noticed any rust. I'm not sure whether it has gone all the way through to bare metal.

My questions:

1. Would professional touch-up paint be an acceptable repair, or is that more of a temporary fix?
2. Would a localized repair, with some sanding and blending around the chip, be a reasonable middle ground?
3. Would repainting the entire door panel be excessive for damage this small, or is that the best option for a satisfactory result?
4. Given that this is metallic black paint, how difficult would it be to make a localized repair blend in properly?
5. If the dealership agrees to repair it, what specific repair would you consider reasonable to request on a car this new?

I'm not necessarily expecting an absolutely invisible repair if that would require disproportionate work, but I mainly want to ensure it is properly repaired so it does not rust in the future and is not an eye sore.

Any advice on what the best repair here would be would be much appreciated!

Is it fixable or I better change the entire bumper?
Do you think there could be any chassis damage ?

Dear All,

Our second car is a 2010 Toyota Aygo which shows rust at two places. If I remove all rust, there are probably two holes, one ~5cm / 2 in (left side) and ~10 cm / 4 in (right side). It's at the rear wheels on both sides.

I've been advised to cut and clean out all rust (cutting and using rust converter), and then to stabilise e.g. with an aluminium mesh. I guess that mesh needs to be glued from the back/inside (I don't have a welding machine, so I'd use two-component metal resin glue). If that's the right approach, I'm not sure about the order of things:

First, clean out all rust of course. But then: (1) Glue the aluminum and once dried, spray with primer? or (2) first spray with primer, and then glue the aluminum?

I guess for the strength of the glue connection (1) is better, but I'm not sure it'll then be properly primed from the inside/back so that rust doesn't come back? One hole is so far in the front, that I don't have access from the back (at least not easily), so I could just spray through the mesh into the inside and hope it reaches all corners.

For context: This is a banged up runabout, we don't need a proper lasting fix, which would be too expensive for the car. It also doesn't need to be pretty. I only want to stop the rust or at least slow down as much as possible to get a bit more out of the car.

Current paint looks dull. Original Toyota color repaint by dealer prior to purchase. My dog dropped out the window and it practically stained it. Would a clear coat help?

Is this normal rust for a 10 year old 2016 Escalade? Only 65k miles, driven in northeast.

So I just picked up my car from being painted , and took inspection at my house and noticed lots of white spots all over the black parts of my front bumper which is what they painted. Some of those marks are dust and some is actual marks that look like dust but are engraved into the paint work . And there is also a long scratch along the middle of my bumper and a weird red stain on it . Anyone working in autobody , is this an acceptable job? And should I take it in again and have them redo it/fix it ? And maybe explain what happened.

Sprayed water and wiped with cloth, this where it's at now.

Hey everyone,

I fkd up :( Was backing out of a spot that had three parking poles, thought I cleared them all, turned my head to see the if I any traffic behind me and boom- cracked my drivers side headlight & the bumper is scratched and had paint scuffs. On a scale of 1-10 on the body damage, I give it 1 4.5.

I already got rid of the white paint that was scuffed on the car, now all that is left is just the scuffs and one pretty bad area where the paint rubbed down to the metal (No more than 1-2 inches long, and barely a .25 of an inch wide). I already bought a paint kit from TouchUpDirect (not the areosol, but the combo pen kit), but I want to make sure I do it correctly so it looks its best. Because I have yet to mention how I only have had this SUV for two weeks (it's a used 2023 but in amazing condition) :((((. And please spare me, I have beat myself up enough about it. I had the same car for 6 years and never did something like this but anyway...

I want to be sure I am doing the correct steps. In what order should I use the brush/pen paint kit (which includes primer, the paint, and the sealer), buff the superficial scratches out, and add a protective coat? Am I missing any steps, like sanding or prepping. I want it to look like it did two weeks ago.

Thanks to anyone who can help or help me learn something new! I appreciate any advice.

P.S. I am going to replace the entire headlight, hopefully soon, just a really big expense right after buying a new car/

My sun roof started leaking and I want to seal it shut permanently. I'm planning to use Flex Caulk Hybrid Polymer Waterproof Sealant and fill up as much of the gap around the exterior perimeter of the sun roof as possible.

Any other products you'd recommend? Any other approaches?

P.S. the sun roof broke a while back and the cost to repair is stupid, so I'm fine with a permanent moon roof haha.

Thanks.

It’s like 2-3mm by 2mm. What causes this? Should it be replaced?

Hi all. Any recommendations on how to fix this side swipe damage? TIA

I’m fixing up my accord for as cheap as possible, not looking for it to be perfect. I got a new drivers side full headlight assembly ready to install for about 50 bucks, i lucked out at the junkyard and got a front bumper and fender, for under 100, same color and great condition! Threw in a picture of the car from the junkyard. Just trying to figure out how to go about the hood. It’s pushed back a bit and out of alignment if you can tell. It still latches great though surprisingly. Theres also a dent near the collision spot. How do I got about getting it back in place, and possibly popping that dent out. And would it be cheap for someone to do it for me somewhere? I also haven’t installed anything yet but will start beginning tomorrow. What else might I need? Anything is helpful. Thank you:)

Looking at a project vehicle soon (in the rust belt). Is this quarter panel something that can actually be repaired? Rust was cut out of the spare tire well per listing (see second photo). Thank y'all.

Scraped my 2026 rav4 hybrid against a parking garage pillar. Got the rear passenger door, quarter panel and black wheel arch trim. Paint is wind chill pearl, code 089.

Some of the gray areas look pretty deep but i can't tell if thats primer or bare metal?

Mainly want to keep it from rusting and make it less obvious. I know touching up pearl white isn't going to make this disappear.

Was looking at the Toyota 089BC and 089 touch up pens. Anyone used these on something this size? If those gray spots are bare metal, what primer would work under them?

What would you do first here? Remove whatever transfer is left, polish the lighter scratches, then touch up the deeper ones? Would rather leave some visible damage than make it worse trying to get it perfect.

Also is there anything worth doing for the scratched black trim or would that need replacing?

Never done paint repair before so trying to figure out what's reasonable to tackle myself. Appreciate any advice.

Hello all, I came here to get some advice, input, and whatever else I guess.

I have a 2017 GMC Sierra Denali. I really love the truck. I’ve owned it for about 7 years now and it’s low mileage and I try and take care of it best I can. So I’ll be honest, I’m pretty particular. It’s no show truck but it’s a nice truck, paid off, and I like it.

Anyway…. The chrome door trim was bubbling and looked awful. It’s coming up on 10 years old so things will happen. I know a lot of people just remove this trim but I honestly really like the chrome. That’s why I bought a Denali.

So I had a shop replace it for me. It was $700 between parts and labor (trim is OEM from GM)

I just got the truck back a couple days ago and did a walk around a few times and I just couldn’t help notice that the trim just looked off. But it's hard to tell with the curves and angles of the truck. So I stuck a card up against it to see and as you can see the pieces just don’t line up.

I mean from a distance and without looking really hard at it can you tell? No. Not really. At some angles you can kinda tell though. But the point is, I paid $700 to have this done and done right.

The first 2 pictures are my drivers side and 3rd picture is my passenger side. And then I’ve included some side shots.

What would you guys do?

I took it back and showed the guy who worked on it. I had never used this guy but was recommended by several trustworthy people to use him. I had seen his previous work and it all looked really good.

When I took it to him and showed him, I asked if he could correct it. He said “can’t be fixed” and I said what do you mean? He said when he took the old trim off there was a tape line “etched” into the paint and he had to adjust the new trim in order to cover those lines. Does this sound right? Or just lazy? Any video I’ve ever seen removing anything like trim with adhesive they remove the adhesive and buff the area to make it clean again.

So yea. Just not satisfied with this. Am I being too picky about this? Am I overreacting or do I have a legitimate case here.

Every single pictures of the front strut mount area online has perfect large sealant applied almost like a welding weave pattern. Mine completely different and the sheet metal seems to be wavy near the passenger side strut mount. The first two pictures are my car and the two others are random pictures online. There are also visible holes possibly for plug welds on mine and on all the pictures online they are not there or atleast not visible. Did I just buy an accidented and repaired vehicle? Carfax was clean.