Im bolting shade sails down with dyno bolts and once I get good tension they start slipping then become loose.

Wrong type? Wtf am I doing wrong

Hope this is the right sub, apologies if not.
I’m trying to get quotes but no one is showing up, had one quote but wanted a sense check on the price.
Got a 24sqm small patio, it’s been laid badly/too high by cowboys builders a few years back.
It’s bridged the dpc and blocked air vents, causing all kinds of damage external and internally to the floor joists.
We are looking to get the existing Indian stone pulled up, excavated and relaid with new drainage.
Quote is £5k
Breakdown as follows
Skip hire, full dig out and levelling, new sub base mot type 1, aco drainage system and titan grout.
Does 5k seem reasonable? I have no idea how much things cost these days. Thanks (North West UK)

I literally have no idea what it even is. It was under laminate flooring. Someone before me cut a hole in the concrete slab.

Before choosing a pergola kit, I'd want to walk through the layout at full size. FlexPatio is one option I'm considering, and the bit I keep getting stuck on is where the posts land relative to the table and the route out of the house.

Marking the footprint on the ground seems useful, but a flat mark is pretty easy to step over. A post isn't. Would you mock up the upright positions as well, with the chairs pulled out, or is there a simpler way you use with homeowners to catch an awkward layout? I'm interested in the everyday “why is this in my way?” stuff that looks fine on a plan.

I have a single-story home in Orange County, CA. We had some drips in one room during the storm in early September. Received the quote from the roofing company to replace our 3253 square foot roof with 50-year GAF-Timberline shingles for $29.5k. This is the same company that installed our previous roof ~20 years ago. Is this a reasonable estimate?

The bathroom designer that we used to remodel our bathroom lasts that this is ok. Her General contractor did this drywall work in the bathroom bulk head. It seems like it will pull apart at the seems in no time with the moisture from a bathroom. The screws are not flush and the pieces are uneven with each other. Am i over reacting?

Location SoCal, estimated about 2600-2700 sq ft of roof total (There are several parts that make up that sq ft like the garage, outdoor closet, etc. ) Hired roofer to redo entire roof and fascia. Do these look acceptable for final payment? The soffit damage is mostly minimal with those two photos the worst. The roofer says they are painters, so they won’t seal the fascia corners and the fascia joints or go back to paint the exposed nails or repair the soffit damage. They said that they included paint as a courtesy normally they would just leave it factory primed for a painter to follow up and paint. The roofer said that it all passed inspection so they done. Is it typical that roofers don’t paint and/or seal the fascia they install?

Roofer says they are transparent but I don’t think they are. they are fully licensed, quoted me $25k for just the roof. After starting, they removed the roof and the fascia and plywood replacement and extra layer of shingles pushed it north of $35k. The roofer completed work last week and is requesting final payment. I assume I should ask for manufacturer warranty information, final inspection paperwork that shows passed, final invoice, and do I need a mechanical lien release? Before I pay him? It’s not worth arguing any of these items right?

Thanks all for any input.

I feel like there’s an obvious answer to this.. but I moved in 2 years ago and I’m just now doing something about this 🤣😅

What is the piece I need called for bottom trim to cover that odd gap.

And then the door has no trim around it. But the wall doesn’t even line up with the jamb. Idk if I just need to adjust this door jamb or if I just need to fill this gap(last slide). It’s about 3/8”. Can’t imagine caulking it would turn out nice. Especially for someone with my caulk skills.

1967 split-level on exterior wall under the roof eave. Not sure if load-bearing. The flippers seem to have cut two studs; the header doesn't extend the full width of the 6' slider door. They also filled the gap with spray foam and even drywalled over a dead wasp’s nest.

There was a diagonal drywall crack running from the top corner of the frame up to the ceiling. The track seems to let water and bugs in, so not sure if that is the framing or the door being cheap.

Replacing the door anyway. The contractor wants $2,549 extra to reframe (new header, king/jack studs).

Necessary, or can I put the new door in the existing opening?

Has to be one of my favorites.

Leveling out two stands for mini splits. One shown here needs ~1/2inch but the other pad is closer to an inch. The stand is powder coated aluminum and it will be bolted down to the concrete after the unit is mounted.

Thanks to all for feedback on the pads. First go was educational to say the least.

My neighbor is building a two level deck. Going from ground>post>3 ply beam and then post up to second level. Anyone know whats the appropriate connector to attach on top of beam for the post? Is a BCS2-3/6 ok to handle a 10ft post going up to the upper deck? I read somewhere we could do the CC66HDG and invert it so the u shape cradles around the top of the beam and the uprights attaches to the post going up. Or can the upper post go loldirectly on the beam and fasten it in and sandwich it? I hope im explaining this correctly.

My HOA hired a contractor to install a rain gutter drainage pipe underneath our concrete driveway. I have photos documenting every stage of the installation and would appreciate feedback from experienced contractors.

After excavating the trench and installing the pipe, the crew backfilled it with what appears to be excavated dirt, rocks, and chunks of broken concrete. They then placed rebar over the backfill and poured new concrete.

My main concerns:

1. Pipe bedding: I didn't observe whether the pipe was placed on an appropriate bedding material or adequately supported.
2. Backfill: The trench appears to contain large pieces of construction debris rather than properly graded aggregate.
3. Compaction: I didn't observe any mechanical compaction before the concrete was poured.
4. Rebar placement: The reinforcement appears to rest directly on the rocky backfill without chairs or other supports.

From what I've researched, proper pipe bedding, suitable backfill, and compaction are important when installing drainage pipes beneath vehicle traffic.

My questions:

• Is this an acceptable installation method?
• Are large chunks of broken concrete acceptable as backfill around a drainage pipe?
• Should the backfill have been mechanically compacted before pouring?
• Is the rebar positioned correctly?
• Based on these photos, would you consider this professional workmanship?

The HOA has dismissed my concerns, and I'd like independent opinions before pursuing a professional inspection.

Located in Colorado. Photos are arranged chronologically, showing the excavation, pipe installation, backfill, reinforcement, and concrete pour.

Thanks for any insight.