I love my Japanese surplus and of course want a Nambu in my collection, so I noticed when this one came in as a consignment for $1,099.99.

1944 and comes with one mag and a holster that has to be a reproduction. Is whoever put this on consignment trying to get more out of it? Thanks

I was doing a bit of reading on proof marks for Arisakas, and noticed a couple of pre-1923 proof marks on it. I was originally told it was made in 1933 but I don’t suspect that to be the case anymore. Could someone who is a bit more knowledgeable about these tell me when approximately my rifle was made? My other Type 38 (Kokura carbine) doesn’t have these proof marks or this teardrop looking safety my long rifle has. Thanks!

Hello everyone!

I’m very new to guns, but I wanted to get some advice on what I should do about a type 44 I found in my grandpa’s old home office awhile back

I only know that it was purchased by him years ago and given to my dad a long time ago too, and from what I can see it’s just missing its dust cover and cleaning rods. It still has the Japanese seal and bayonet, and besides a thin crack at the rifle butt, jammed bayonet release, minor rust on the surface, and a finicky safety knob, it is still mechanically sound

Any tips on cleaning the barrel since it’s caked in grime? How do I unjam the bayonet? Anything I should do about the rifle butt crack, or the surface rust? How do i clean off the grime and filth on the wood and metal without damaging it, how do i lubreacte it, and how often could I use it to shoot once it’s safe? Should I source the cover and/or cleaning rods, and if so should I hunt for an original or find replacements Any other quirks and tips I should know for this gun? Anything helps!

I bought this today and it was labeled as a Type 38. I tried finding stuff out about it and saw that it's marked "Type 44". But it doesn't look like a Type 44.

Does anyone have any information on why a Type 38 is stamped 44? Or any information or quirks on the gun that you can see? This is my first gun and I bought it spur of the moment so I'd love to learn about it

MODS: If this is inapproprate ,pls delete. I will post to /Bayonets, but thought maybe some folks here would have a better idea of this. I have a Nagoya Type 30 that appears to show Series いい which I believe is Series 49. But as the photos show, this blade only shows the Nagoya mark and no subcontractor. I don't have a copy of Raymond C. LaBar's book, but I can find no reference to a Nagoya-only Series 49. What am I missing?

First range trip with the Type 99 I picked up yesterday, not too bad for 50 yards.

Norma 7.7 174 grain, nice rounds…not much recoil.

A last ditch numbers matching Type 99 Arisaka.

Walked out paying 370 chicken nuggets out the door.

Taking it to the range tomorrow.

Link to previous thread - Cleaning rod identification help : r/Arisaka

Here is a better picture. As previously asked, I'm trying to determine if I have a legit cleaning rod, but mismatched? Or, do I have a full length cleaning rod that someone cut down?

TLDR: non matching rifle does weird stuff with brass, considering a chamber cast or finding a headspace gauge.

I have a rifle that came with a broken off bolt handle, I got a new bolt body and everything seemed to work fine after swapping parts over (cycling, dry fire, safety, etc).

But at the range I was met with two light strikes (See photo #2, also the unfired round on the right). I pulled that one out and tried a different round which went off first try, but the case expanded and locked the bolt up bad enough to where I needed a mallet; i believe this may be how the previous bolt was broken. Looking at the brass I'm worried about the chamber being deformed. Any advice is appreciated! (Edit: shell in the middle is for reference, it is the same norma ammo just fired from a friend's type 99)

Sorry for the crappy picture, but can someone help me with Arisaka cleaning rod identification?

It's short (non-threaded).

From my research I believe it's a Series 31 Toyo Kogyo Type 99. However, those should have full length cleaning rods?

The rod channel in the stock is full length. I'm trying to determine the following:

Do I have a legit cleaning rod, but mismatched? Or, do I have a full length cleaning rod that someone cut down?

It's numbers matching with all the "extras" (monopod, sling, dust cover, AA sights, etc.) so I think there is a bit of value there, but the cleaning rod can add even more value.

I have what I believe is an Arisaka 38 that was brought back from Japan after WWII. Still has the flower, original parts, finish and seems to be in decent condition.

Immediate issues I see are
1. The splitting wood on the stock
2. Lack of a barrel cleaner

I was considering getting it restored into working order while keeping it as original as I can (by a professional).

What are these things worth? Is it worth restoring? Anything I should know about this firearm?

Hello guys,
I need help getting a value for my type 99, Im considering putting it on the market to fund some projects. I have a bayonet and have shot around 60 rds through it. Im not trying to sell it here just trying to see what you guys would say its worth! Thanks

Had this type 38 carbine for a year now. It's one of the guns Japan sold to Britain that ended up in Finland by way of Russian. Has a British rack number, and some kind of personal marking on the right finger groove. Pleasant little rifle, soft shooting, and rather light.

I recently picked up a Type 99 last ditch Arisaka at a local auction, and while it’s in pretty good condition overall with an excellent bore, it’s missing a few parts. It was missing the magazine box, a trigger guard screw, and the wood buttplate.

The magazine box and screw is fairly easy to find online, but the buttplate and nails seem to be unobtanium. Does anyone know of a good source for these? Thanks in advance!

I shot my Type 99 Arisaka for the first time and I only shot it twice and both time the casing did not eject and there was scoring and some bulging in the casing where the bullet sits what is causing this? I had it checked out and was told it’s still chambered in 7.7

Okay gentlemen, now that my dumb The Office joke has been said, I have an update on my gun once more. After more comments on my last two posts I decided to buy some 300 savage after learning how my gun had been converted and what others had run into. Sure enough, she shoots some 300 savage. First shot was on a lead sled and needless to say, the gun shoots and I was also not expecting it to have quite THAT much kick that it rolled over. So glad to have a numbers matching gun with mum that can still get it done. If scopes weren’t nearly 2 grand I’d throw one on it in a heartbeat.

Which leads me to another question. I don’t want to drastically change the gun more than it has been modified. But I do want a scope. What’s a noninvasive way you guys have mounted a scope to your rifles? Thanks in advance for any information reguarding mounting options

I bought a bubba'd sporterized arisaka from an old bloke for $50, he said it was chambered in "257" and I impulse bought it. Researching online, I see that 6.5x257 is actually the common rechambering for this rifle.. I put a 257 round in it, it fit fine and dandy, ejected fine too (didn't fire, just cycled it). Is it fine to shoot .257 out of this rifle? It's beat to hell, I just don't want it blowing up. Forgive my bad knowledge of ammo.

Really want a 38 in 8mm Mauser was wondering if there common or even if taking a beat up type 38 and just getting it rechamberd in 8mm is a good idea

I recently purchased this Type 38. I was looking for help on identifying its background. I was also looking for a second opinion on it’s condition, and if it would be smart to have this cleaned up and back to shooting condition or if it’s best to have it just for historical value. When I bought it I was hoping that it would be able to shoot, but I’ll still be happy either way.

Update to the update:
Did some research and found out that 300 savage is almost the same as 308 win but slightly different. I will order some 300 sav and if the bolt locks I’ll do the tape test on my bullet. If it passes both tests I’ll set it up in a rig and pull the trigger from a distance. If it cycles a few rounds without any problems I’ll call it a good shooter. If there’s carnage…. There will be a video.

Update:

Took the arisaka to a gun smith this morning, and the gun has been attempted to be rechambered in 308 win. After measuring the bore and checking the spacing of the cartridge, the gunsmith determined that someone had done some work to it, and is a few thousands off from having a 308 cycle through the gun properly. The job could be finished for about the price of another rifle. All that being said he also tested the barrel hardness and found it was, as he put it, maybe a little too hardened. According to him some of these guns are so hardened at factory that they become slightly brittle through the process. The rifling to me, someone who isn’t a gunsmith, looks great. He said it was about 50% or slightly less. The squared off end I saw internally was from the rifling process and is apparently normal. This guy had several Arisaka and other old school military guns through his shop in various stages of repair assembly and disassembly, so I believe he knows his stuff. That combined with my mechanical background and knowledge and me sitting with him as he checked the gun with different methods leads me to agree with him. The gun was improperly chambered to 308 win at some point

Thanks to everyone with the knowledge to help me figure out the history of this gun. You guys know the small details and that’s why I love Reddit, we can hyperfocus on something with autism level enthusiasm and get things figured out and for that I thank you gentlemen