Hi, I live in a loft, got a very small room for my gaming/listening needs and I'm running into a lot of low-end interference. (no fancy equipment, just some t5v's through a fiio k7) I've done absolutely no treatment, eq or measuring yet, as I've moved in not too long ago.

There is some attic space behind the wall where the speakers sit, where I could extend the insulation up to like half a meter thick and then cover it with a double layer of drywall. I could then cut holes through my interior wall, at the first reflection points.

Essentially turning my whole wall into one giant bass trap. Is that enormously stupid? It's dead space that doesn't get used anyway and the extra insulation would also help with heat.

I've never seen anyone try and do something like this, although it makes sense to my currently very tired brain.

my room measures slightly less than 4m x 4m and the ceiling is about 2.5m tall

I've got a metal sided pole barn kit being delivered soon and I'm idly thinking about siding the end of it I'm turning into a hobby studio in concrete board instead but I can't find this information anywhere. Probably not worth the expense but it seems odd they don't publish it.

Anyone know?

How would you go about reducing airborne noise, mostly voices, coming up through the floor vent from downstairs tenants?

These damn vents are like megaphones

​

Hey everyone!

I'm currently building four acoustic panels for my small home studio in my living room. Each panel measures 120 × 60 × 10 cm and will be filled with rock wool.

For the fabric covering, I bought a material made of 60% polyester and 40% viscose (rayon). The fabric is relatively thin, actually thinner than a regular T-shirt, and has a fine woven texture. It's also somewhat translucent. When I hold it up against a flashlight, I can partially see what's behind it.

My main concern, however, is its breathability.

I tried the so-called "blow-through test" to find out whether the fabric is suitable for acoustic panels.

Here's what I noticed:

\- I can blow air through the fabric, but there's noticeable resistance.

\- For comparison, I tried blowing through a regular T-shirt. Air passes through the T-shirt much more easily, almost without any resistance.

\- With the fabric I bought, however, it feels like significantly less air passes through.

\- When I stretch the fabric slightly or pull it taut, air passes through more easily.

\- Both sides of the fabric feel the same, and I couldn't find any obvious coating.

So now I'm wondering: Is this fabric still suitable for my 10 cm thick rock wool acoustic panels despite the noticeable airflow resistance?

Could the relatively low breathability cause certain frequencies, especially higher frequencies, to be reflected more strongly, making the absorbers less effective?

I mainly want to use these panels for vocal recording, but also for mixing and mastering. That's why it's really important to me that they work as effectively as possible.

Would you keep and use this fabric, or would you return it and buy something more breathable instead?

I honestly love the way this fabric looks, which is why I'm having a hard time deciding whether to return it.

Thanks so much for your help!

I'm building DIY bass traps, and I'm looking for advice on cheap fabric I can get that will optimize sound, but also safely keep in all of the rock wool fibers. I would really appreciate any suggestions!

One of the walls (3,5x2,8m) has windows (2,5x1,2m).

I've explored the curtain hanging but I'm looking for a way to do it while preserving the light coming in.

What are measurements/materials/technique I should be using?

Why don’t we all take a breath from the extreme societal issues, and remember that if you fart on wood, like a door perhaps, it will sound louder. Why? Hard wood is rigid and non-porous, meaning it bounces (reflects) the sound waves straight back out into the room with minimal energy loss. You’re welcome.

Im trying to decrease noise transfer in an interior wall between a bathroom and a bedroom.

I already have the wall built out with staggered studs. My plan was to put safe n sound mineral wool insulation in the stud bays to help reduce the noise. But I do have someone coming in to spray the ceiling soon with OC foam. If I had them spray the stud bays in lieu of putting batt insulation in there, would it be better? My worry is it may actually increase noise transfer due to essentially connecting the bathroom and bedroom wall together.

Just figured I’d get as much info as I can prior to the drywall going up. Any help
Is appreciated. Thanks.

Also, sorry for yet another post about this.

We have this loft area that is currently wasted space. After having another baby, we’re going to move my sewing room to this loft area. The problem is that I mostly sew late at night or early in the morning when everyone is sleeping.

Obviously the best option would be to build a wall and add a door, but that just isn’t an option for us at the moment.

This is what I was thinking.
-Get some sort of mat or gym mat to put on the floor. (I don’t want thick carpet as I could easily drop pins/needles)
-Heavy curtains at loft openings

Will that be enough? Is there anything else I could do? Maybe hang a quilt or something on the back wall that is adjacent to a bedroom?

PS if this is not the right community for this question, please let me know and I’ll post elsewhere!

Hey just moved in to New apartment. The main door is wooden and hollow. I can hear from outside a lot and visa versa..there is another door with someone renting right in front of my door and his is same. It is rent so can't ruin door.

Was going back and forth with ai about solutions. Wanted to know what you think and if there's any glues that won't ruin the door.

My privacy is just very important wand want to be able to talk free and make music loudly and have friends over etc without worrying about noise coming out

Thank you

Also has anyone ever used 3m command velkrow on wooden door? Any insights?

I am trying to turn my small home office into a multi use space. The goal is to have a nice listening space for my hifi set up and use it as a small but tidy home office. The room is about 20x10 and the furnace take up some of the space towards the back. 2 of the walls are completely concrete. The wall in picture 3 is half concrete and a crawl space a the remaining wall showing in the last picture on the left is wood that separates the room in question from the rest of my basement. I am under ZERO preconceived notions that I can make the room even close to acoustically perfect. Or even acoustically adequate. I am starting to install Rockwool in the ceiling between the joists. But that is step one and I also believe I’m installing it too high I. The joist and it’s touching the ceiling.
What materials should I be using to help mitigate the sound and turn the room into a place that is at least decent for hifi listening?
Also I plan on installing bookshelves along at least 2 of the walls and the wall that shares the crawl space will be covered as well.

I'm building a home studio for mixing and recording vocals and want to get the best results possible doing the treatment myself. There's a lot of conflicting information online, especially about bass trap dimensions and air gaps, so I'd appreciate some advice on what would actually work best for my room.

The room is 10x10 ft with 7 ft 4 in ceilings. My desk faces the front wall, and my listening position is about 3 ft 10 in from that wall. I have a clothing rack with thick jackets on the back wall and a 1/2-inch felt rug pad with a 1/4-inch rug on the floor. I record vocals sitting at my desk with a Shure SM7dB.

I'm in an apartment, so I can't hang a ceiling cloud. One of the back corners has a door, so I can only use the other three corners. There's also 1-inch floor trim along the walls.

My current plan:

Reflection panels: Four 2x4 ft panels using 3 inches of Rockwool with a 3-inch air gap. One on each side wall and two on the front wall in front of my listening position. I’ve found the reflection points by sitting in my listening position and getting a friend to help me with the mirror trick. (I’ve already begun building these.)

Corner bass traps: Three flat, porous absorber traps, each 24 inches wide and 6 inches deep, running nearly floor to ceiling, with a 12-inch air gap behind them.

I've seen recommendations for 6-inch-thick bass traps with a 6-inch air gap, but because of the room geometry and floor trim, I'd have to make the panels much narrower to keep the gap at 6 inches. I've heard that wider panels can be more effective, so I'm trying to figure out whether a 12-inch gap makes more sense or if there's a better design altogether.

A few questions:

1. Is 6 inches of Rockwool with a 12-inch air gap a good design for my corner traps?

2. What's the best way to make floor-to-ceiling bass traps freestanding? I'd prefer not to drill into the walls, but I'm open to other options if there's a better approach. Since the traps will sit in corners, how would you design the feet or base to keep them stable without taking up too much space?

3. What's the cheapest suitable fabric for covering Rockwool while containing the fibers? Would I need an additional inner layer?

4. Should I wrap the corner traps Rockwool in plastic to keep the room from sounding too dead, or would that negatively affect its absorption and sound?

I'm trying to find the most effective setup for both vocal recording and mixing while keeping everything affordable and space-efficient. I'd appreciate any advice specific to my room. Thank you!

Hi, my goal here is to dampen sound by 50% or more, not completely block sound.

I'm a streamer, and I just moved to a new place. My apt has those fake hardwood floors that allow sound to travel. My problem is that sound seems to leak through the front door into the apt hallways. It is appearantly quite audible there.

I want to get a tension rod and hang a curtain in front of the door that I can draw closed when I'm streaming.

My question is would a light curtain be enough to intercept sound waves and block the bulk from escaping through the door into the hall? Weight of the curtain will determine cost, and I've already spent plenty on moving. My Hope's are you'll all help me dial in on a good density.

Hello everyone,

Im currently a freelance live sound engineer, I love the job when im designing PA systems, measuring and tuning them on site and i also enjoy the RF associated roles. However there are downsides to the work, namely the hours and the physical labours effect on my back and constantly working away. Im considering a side step into the world of acoustics, I have been looking at applying for a IOA diploma in Acoustics and Noise Control and possibly a Masters in the Acoustics field after that. My question is that given my qualifications (BSc in Studio & Live music production and 10 years experience as a sound engineer) what is my likelihood to be accepted into the diploma or masters course? Has anyone else entered the Acoustics industry via a similar route? Would this actually result in work in the industry or is it like many industries where it is exceedingly hard to enter without industry contacts?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hi. We are building a studio within an old Anderson shelter.

We have laid a new solid concrete floor and intend to build a twin wall construction which is a build up of the following
One layer 12.5mm sound shield
One layer 12.5 wall board
50mm RWA45
50mm air gap

Then the same in reverse for the inner wall.

The construction will use 50mm metal stud and I stud.

The walls are straightforward however my son wants to keep some of the shape of the roof and doesn’t want it to be flat. The overall ceiling height within the structure is about 3.5m to the highest point.

We want to create an apex to aid with the sound deflection but also to utilise the space.

We also need to maintain the air gap within the walls but continue into the ceiling.

We will probably span the inner walls with timber joists but cut them short so that they don’t bridge the air gap and rest on the inner wall.

The issue comes when we want to maintain the 50mm gap but also can’t use any thing that will join the inner ceiling or wall but still be self supporting. We are thinking we can drop supports from the t bar angles supporting the roof. Has anyone use anything that decouples the supports / straps in this way ?

Sorry long winded question.
.

I’m redoing my home studio/ walk in closet for voice acting and I need acoustic panels so I’m deciding to make it my self. I need to balance my low and high frequencies in my walk in. His diy panels are 6 inches thick with 3.5 inch thick rock wool insulation and 2 inch acoustic foam on top. My question is would putting the foam on top of the panels, will it ruin the ability to absorb low frequencies bc foam are made for high frequencies while struggling on low frequencies. His diy panel are on YouTube and please tell me anything you find wrong with it, ima scared that the foam would ruin the panels.

y new high school is designed so that if anyone makes any noise, everyone can hear it from anywhere. what problems might this cause? just want to see what you guys think that I haven’t already complained about