Prior groomer so maybe I can offer some insight. Brush with a few different brushes. Remove matting with scissors if unnoticeable. Blow dry to remove loose hair. Brush again. Wash. Apply detangler. Blow dry until dry. Brush out coat. Cough up a fur ball. Return happy doggo.
I am still perfecting my own process, she is a slithering eel for one thing (literally will slide off the couch to get away from the brush).
I have the furminator, a metal comb, a long toothed slicker brush, a rake. I invested in a K9 3 and got about 85% of her undercoat blown out, which was EPIC (justified it by saving the money taking her and my GS to get professionally done when the last time was so poorly done I might as well have set $250 on fire).
My downfalls are the mats just behind her ears and around her collar line. I tried to gently shave them out but she absolutely REFUSED to let me do it, so best I could do was cut about half of them with scissors. Since then I've just been keeping the brushes nearby and brushing for 5 or 10 minutes until she slithers away.
We have slip nooses (grooming loops/bath leashes) to keep them from moving around. One side connects to an O ring on the wall of the trailer. They slip over the head, are about 2 feet long, and restrain the dog. It doesn't hurt the dog and the dog can't pull out. The vast majority of dogs don't have an issue with them and they are rubber/plastic wrapped cable so biting through them is difficult. You might try this attached in the garage or to a post outside to keep the doggo attached. If you don't have a suitable post, they sell attachments that mount to a table, it's worth investing in a good one and it will mark the table slightly.
The ears/collar area are rough. As cruel as it sounds, many huskies require rougher than normal treatment. Strongly pin her behind the head in an area of the house that you do not play. Maintain pressure until she stops moving. Let up and snip. As soon as she starts pulling again, back to the pressure.
Also, if you care less about looks for a month or two, remove more hair than is necessary to get cleaner access to the base of the mat.
As a final consideration, they make special scissors with a 45° angle at the bottom to allow easier cutting. They aren't terrifically expensive and can be quite useful.
They make ones with a sharp bend, and more or less gradual. But something like this. These are inexpensive and are meant to be disposable. They won't hold an edge or re-sharpen as well as an expensive pair. Still will last 20-40 bath days depending on the amount you cut.
Purebred huskies have tight skin. For the area around her neck, practice on your arm. Extend your arm with palm down as if you are typing on a keyboard. Practice cutting the part of your arm facing up. If you cut your arm you will cut her. It'll take a few minutes but there is a strategy to it with the curved scissors.
If the mat is big, don't be afraid to make tiny snips in sections. Although, you may have to sit on her to do so.
Also, wash your scissors in rubbing alcohol before and after each time. Just make sure the alcohol fully drys.
I am not a vet, but after grooming dogs for a few years you learned some things:
If you do nip her, give her hugs and kisses while applying pressure to the wound. Neck cuts are similar to cutting a human head. They bleed an absurd amount. Don't worry, she is fine. It will clot quickly. Once it clots, put a dab of Neosporin on it and you are good to go. Yes, it is safe for dogs. Replace the Neosporin daily for 1 day then every other day for 4 days following the incident (it's overkill, but it works). The scab should fall off in 10-14 days.
If the cut is on the ears, use bacitracin instead. Neosporin is bacitracin with added polymyxin B and neomycin. Polymyxin B is fine for dogs. Neomycin occasionally has issues, mostly on the ears, although it is rare. I have never seen it.
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u/EUNEisAmeme 17h ago
looks smol in this perspective