I have thousands of these Panasonic NCR1860B cells brand new never used taken from hamilton medical battery packs and I have hundreds of packs not even open yet. If anybody’s interested, give me a shout. I’m just north of Winnipeg Canada and I will ship anywhere in the country.

I shared my thoughts on assembling a lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery in a 4S1P configuration. Since I have only just joined this community two days ago, I was not aware of the group's regulations beforehand, and I sincerely apologize for that. 🙏🏼 Given this situation, I think the best option is to request to leave the group. Additionally, I would like to apologize to all members of the Reddit18650 community for posting content that is not related to 18650 batteries. My intention was simply to share the ideas I have studied, but now I realize that those posts were not beneficial at all. I apologize once again.😞😓😢🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

Im trying to find cells for my dewalt batteries. There all about 7ish years old. All the cells I’m ringing are $6+. Idk if that’s just what they are now or if I can find some good ones for a better price. I’m not trying to cheap out as I want them to last I just don’t want to spend a small fortune either. Thanks

Hi everyone,

I work on lithium-ion cell qualification through cirBATT (cirbatt.com), a battery reuse project in France.

One issue I’m looking at is how to report internal resistance so another person can meaningfully interpret the result.

A resistance reading needs context: the measurement method, state of charge, temperature and contact arrangement. Results from an AC resistance meter and a DC pulse test should also be identified separately.

For those of you who sort recovered 18650 cells:

• Do you measure resistance at a defined state of charge and temperature?
• How do you check the repeatability of your fixture and contacts?
• Do you use resistance mainly to compare cells of the same model, or also when evaluating mixed batches?

Which instrument and fixture have given you the most repeatable results?

I’m interested in the measurement process and its limitations, rather than a universal resistance threshold.

Im trying to find batteries that will work in a E70 mini the factory battery is a protected button top (15A according to goggle) usbc battery. I tried liion 18650 protected button top 10A cell Google says 10A should work but sometimes i have to spam turbo to get it to stay on other times it just wont go into turbo. Im having some hard time finding protected button top cells that are 15A. I read some reviews saying the batteries have issues at times. Im trying to find a cost effective alternative then buying straight from acebeam. They are really expensive.

I have 2 bms with balancers built in

Here is what I want

I have

First pack

3s2p bms with balancer built in

Second pack

3s2p bms with balancer built in

Now im wondering if i can wire the output to make a 24v output or if that would make any problems

I was in another room when I heard a loud pop. I had this partially deconstructed battery pack on my desk, and looking at it, I noticed the outer wrapper was torn. Has the CID ruptured? If so, what would have caused that? That battery has been off a charger for a week, and the housing it sits in is non conductive.

HI

I rebuilt the original Proscenic P11 battery (CJ-11, 25.9 V, 2000 mAh, 7S1P) using 7× LG MH1 cells instead of the original Sunpower cells.

- All cells: 4.172 V, approximately 59 mΩ.

- All 7 series-group voltages appear correct.

- BMS PCB: NL2208-C10C11-A-V3.2, marked KB6160.

- Battery output is 0 V without the charger.

- With the charger connected, the display turns on and shows 100%, but the motor won't start.

- Tried waking the BMS without success.

- CP2102 gave unreadable data; CP2112 SMBus attempts have not received a response.

Does anyone know how to reset/unlock this BMS, identify its communication protocol, or recover it after replacing the cells? I'd like to keep the original BMS.

Thanks!

I started with stripping 18650 battery packs, and try to save the batteries.

I got a LiitoKala m4s charger. It runs all day.

Do you charge at night as well as day?

1.3 miles and 1.9ah. this was pushing it hard and I would have done more but the brakes are garbage and I was done with regen only stopping for the moment. Basically I should have no problem running 50a all-day long once I have the heat pipe heat sinks and fan controller installed so exactly what I was hoping for.

I know 5-10W is ideal for these cells, but, how do I limit that on this board? I also want to output 45W, but while charging, only 10W. Is if possible? The IC is the IP2369. It’s supposed to be a bidirectional board.

I'm trying to build a 6s2p pack. I'm using TENPOWER 60XG's and need to pull ~50A. I plan to follow this from Tyeboi using 0.2 copper and 0.1 stainless steel sandwich for the connections to the terminals, however I need to make the pack a 3x2x2 due to space constraints. How to I make the connection between the ends? I found this thread from 6 years ago that suggests building them us a 3x2x1 and then folding over. Is this still considered the best method given the currents I need to draw?

I have 9 Murcipel 18650. 3 3 cells wired in parallel.

3s 12 volt 25 amp bms board. 12.6 , 2 amp cc/cv charger.

Wired and assembled. Charged batteries separately at first. Back and forth with tests but last run thru:

B- B+. 12.57

P- P+. 12.17

First charge with charger, each 3 cell got a little high with charge , Concerning ? . After an hour, they all settled under 4.20.

Bad BMS? I tried a quick charge to wake the board but no go.

Quick update on my battery build from my previous post.

I made custom outer sleeve from 1 mm polypropylene sheet, shape around the pack profile. Its amazing that even cheap packing tape grips the PP pretty well. I'll reinforce it with fiberglass tape when I get it.

My next steps:

Fishpaper over the exposed nickel

EPDM around the perimeter and BMS installation

Mount it all inside a frame triangle bag with EVA foam for cushioning

Still work in progress. The current shell is mainly for mechanical protection.

Curious of what you guys think so far!

Hi all!

I dismantled 3 garden tool battery packs and salvaged about 300 cells (Panasonic NCR18650PF and CGR18650CG). Many of them have rust on the insulator rings and some were damp when I opened the packs.

Should I replace the insulator rings, or is the rust just cosmetic? Which cells would you discard right away?

I've ordered a 4-channel capacity/IR tester. Any tips on how to test this many cells efficiently?

Just finishing off a rebuild of one of my 10S4P Reention RK4-type batteries for my ebike, 36V/20A output. It vexes me that after neatly crimping and heatshrinking the whole build, there seems to be no way to terminate the ends of the pack other than dumping a huge amount of solder onto a nickel tab? Something like a spot weldable crimp lug would be perfect but it doesn't seem like they exist other than small ones for BMS leads, is there any better way of doing this?

I recently salvaged some cells from my old project. Have been charging them on and off for about 2 weeks and 1 cell refused to go over 4V. Other cells are reading 4.18V to 4.16V, just this one cell that refused to go back up. What should I do with it?

I found used laptop batteries at my work.

Anyone got recommendations for quality aftermarket BMS PCB for Milwaukee 12.0HD (15*21700)? Or OEM used source?

Everything I'm seeing on Aliexpress has the either aluminum or steel heatsink and no rated current posted which can't be a good sign in terms of current.

Contrary to all the other M18 batteries I have, the 12.0s do seem to have mosfets controlling the output. I've got two tabless rebuilds so don't want to be limited by BMS but both OEM BMS are either locked out or DOA.

Thanks in advance!

Not my setup, saw selling online

You can see the previous post here https://www.reddit.com/r/18650masterrace/s/n0bm0ZNthy

The internal resistance of the pack of cells in the UK3 is only 2.02 mohm according to my battery ir meter, or about 3.5 mohm continuous from experimental discharge data. I read that cells have lower ir during a short pulse than continuous, so I suppose that makes sense, or probably more likely, my experiment was flawed. So either way they're pretty good cells, and my idea of throwing some 18650s in place of them was goofy as hell.

I was surprised to find that they seem to lie about having a preheat/dual pulse. I didn't see a preheat pulse with my oscilloscope during a weld, manual or auto. I tried multiple different pulse settings and none offered anything resembling a pulse on the scope. So that's cool. I'm not sure what they have to gain by lying about a preheat pulse, it wouldn't be hard to program since they already have a microcontroller on the board. Has anyone else checked other AWithZ spot welders for a real preheat?

I was trying to get more current from the welder by reducing resistance in the leads. I wanted to test a short between the plugs to see a theoretical max current with perfect leads and see how much the voltage would drop at the cells on my scope, and to see if anything would explode. I accidentally went full retard and left it on auto as I was holding a 8mm x .1 copper strip across them to see if it would fit. I'm not sure how that stroke of genius came to my mind, but it triggered a weld pulse and caused a bunch of arcing and spiky angry noise on the scope, and exploded the strip a little bit at the contact points. Next the board started smoking so I quickly unplugged it and turned it off. Turns out it caused a short in the little XOYA mosfet, part of the boost converter circuit which drives the main weld mosfet gates. That caused a diode to cook, and not in the good way, only stopped by an inductor desoldering itself from the board. I didn't have all the components to repair it on hand, but I do happen to have a pack of cheap little boost converter modules courtesy of our friends in China. I rigged that up and moved the boost diode to the burnt diode spot since they're the same part. I set it to 12.5v, I'm not sure if that's ideal, I might have to raise it a bit because there's a bit of a upturn on the weld pulse near the end now when it's not plugged into USB charging. It may be letting the gate voltage drop too much, and that may convince the weld mosfets to follow their XOYA comrade into silicon hell. I'm not sure if it was like that before or not, but I'm guessing not, and that it's being caused by the jank boost converter. The welder works again though!

Now I'm back to reducing resistance in the leads, but making to attempt at do less dumb this time. A lot of the resistance is at the crimps at the plug and pen tube, and also between the pen, collet, and tip. Around 1.4 and 1.6 mohms per lead. I reduced it to about 1.0 mohms by soldering the crimps, collet, and tip. I still have to do it to the other lead and get them insulated and stuff, and then I will test a weld again to see if I make better welds on copper sandwiches or blow something else up.

Let me know what y'all think. And if you're interested to see the results of the lead resistance reduction, stay tuned for the next episode of UK3 experiments!