OR ANYTHING THAT CAN BE INTERPRETED AS ADVERTISING/SALES! This includes discount code posts.

Here’s my Springfield Kuna running a Nexus lower, ARC V2 45/90, and Rise Armament RAVE 140. Nexus lower.

CAT Mob and HSL 147.

It just chugs along at 750 rpm and shoots literally anything I put in it.

Not as soft or as flat as my mp5’s, but just incredibly consistent and reliable.

This fire rate is, I think, perfect for a 9 mm SSmg!

Installed a leber v2 lower in my SP5K. All three safety-modes function on the lower as they should when out of the gun.

I haven't had a chance to live fire test yet, but when dry firing with the lower installed on the gun, super safety mode isn’t resetting the trigger. yes. I have the skip trip installed and the cam-lever installed in the correct spot (between BCG and Slip trip). the problem seems to be to not be with the slip trip, but rather the bolt isn’t coming back far enough to reset the trigger (by pushing the cam lever all the way back). if I reach in the back with my finger (using an inspection cover) and pull the lever back 5mm more, then that resets the trigger . I don’t know of this is because when racking the charging handle by hand I don’t bring the bolt back as far as a line round (more force) does?

has anyone else experienced this?

live fire tests will be in 2 days. I’d prefer to sold this potential problem before getting to the range

I have a couple of ak47 dracos that I'm trying to set up with 3-positions. The kits that I have are the typical over sized cam with trip bar. The 2 kits are slightly different though: 1 of them is the flat top cam and it is showing a lot of potential

the other kit has the bump on top of the cam that activates the trip bar and I cant hardly get it to do anything.

I'm aware that the majority of the problem is the host firearms. I haven't had any trouble getting the old style super safety with the small cam to run reliably but this style of cam and getting it to mesh with the trigger leg is wearing me out.

so the bump cam I can't get to work on either pistol but the flat top is close. I think the trigger leg is the lesser problem on both.

I've watched some videos and see people filing the trigger leg 2 different ways: with the zig zag and with the long sloping curve.

I have yet to take that step because I've had to start over with triggers a couple of times.

Anyways, I came to say that the flat top cam setup as it is has a good mesh and fit with the trigger style I'm using now with a slight curve to the corner. The issue there is that even though its a good fit, the trigger is bottomed out on the receiver where the cam locks it. So when the bolt comes back it is dislodging the safety bar as it hits the cam. Logically thinking, I know that the trigger leg should be reduced in height so that as the trigger is being held, the bolt can smoothly ride over the cam and the trigger should not be pinned to the bottom of the receiver.

So my question is with the correct mesh that I have now, should I just take some material from the top of the trigger leg so that the trigger assembly can have some give between the cam and receiver floor? would that not reduce the harsh angle of the cam that occurs when the bolt is coming back and riding over or "resetting" the cam? This cam seems like it should work without a different profile on the trigger, just a height reduction.

I tried with some old triggers from which I removed too much material for the old, original style super safety and with that the cam easily resets by only pulling the trigger which in theory wouldn't work, correct? These triggers just have a more pronounced curve but nothing crazy - just a tad bit too much for the little 2 position cams.

I'm thinking that all of my problems on either style would be solved with a certain filing on the trigger leg, but I don't want to go at it without some feedback or suggestions from others who have actually had success with getting these to function properly.

With that being said, the cam with the hump seems like it may require a trigger leg with the zig-zag pattern or something more pronounced because I'm getting almost zero interaction with cam-to-trip bar interface. If I stick a small piece of a tooth pick into the front of the trip bar, it shows a lot of action, but when its removed the cam and bar dang near stand still with bolt and trigger movement. Also, I messed up the cam with the bump on top by filing too much from the back of it that sticks out to get reset by the bolt carrier. i filed it down to almost nothing because I couldn't get the BCG in there. Would that be a trigger/cam interface issue that caused that? Its the same deal that I have with the other flat top came except it was wildly out of geometry. I'm guessing that all of this is due to the trigger assembly not having the space to move up and down as the bcg is passing about.

I really want to know if i'm on the right track with the trigger leg profile and when I go to replace the bump top cam if I should get the same kit or another flat top cam. I'm leaning toward another flat top kit but i want to get it right and functional before i order another one.

Fun gun, works great in semi. It has issues chambering in FRT without the suppressor even at max gas port and it has some odd ejecting. My guess is friction between the mag and the bolt and that the extra back pressure from the suppressor is helping overcome. I’m probably going to file the top of one of my mags to see if it does better with that.

I’ve got a super safety installed but no bolt weight behind it since it’s a 9in barrel I didn’t think it’d need more power behind the bolt, but I seem to keep getting a falling hammer when trying to reset the trigger in semi auto… any advice on how to get rid of that problem? Debos trip sadly don’t not like the rtb bolt in the dear22 lower but can handle shooting out of a 556/223 barrel with a polymer lower no problem… it’ll go burst then give me a dead trigger then I have to recharge the handle, its weird… works but it doesn’t. I forget which size trip I’m using I know it’s pla soldiers I think it’s the +2mm, Debos trip didn’t work sadly so I’m at a loss atm

Camset3p-15. This looks like Dias . I don’t have any first hand info but the design is interesting.

I finally got to shoot my 9.8” 9mm PCC with a Novox Research SD kit.

I thought I was going to have to adjust buffer weights but it ran perfectly with a JRC tube, 10oz KVP buffer, and 2 Kynshot spacers.

I wanna run an Atrius with my Rise Armament RA-240 trigger. Is there a stronger version of the Atrius that is more reliable? If so, how can you tell the difference between the versions?

i know the addressable market is ARs currently out in the market, but i have to imagine that if you retool the lower to make more room for the FRT/SS mechanism, it can probably be made much more reliable or with more options.

will you guys check my logic here... does this seem likely and do you know of anyone working on something like this at present?

I've seen a few threads in the past year about DD PCC FRTs but not many recent posts. Was hoping people could chime in with drop in (no Dremeling!) FRT rec's for this platform.

One that I saw repeatedly mentioned is the Triggered Company Disruptor, but the company made a significant silent revision a few months ago. Most of the rec's are from before that revision.

• Anyone try a revised Disruptor in their DD PCC?
• Does the revised version have the fucked safety + binary/burst problems in semiauto?

Also curious if anyone's tried the Cornfire MARC with the DD PCC. That one is rumored to work out of the box with G$ triggers without cutting so it might have expanded compatibility.

Any other recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I'm close to buying one but no FRT = no sale, and I'd rather not Dremel a brand new $1500 firearm. Thanks.

Has anyone tried to brrtttt their BRN-4 upper with any of the available rapid fire options that work in its matching AR-15 lower?

Have any of you had an issue an arc fire lever with a g$ hammer and lever block installed still binding under the hammer with the weapon pointing down? Had my rifle pointed down and tried to rack the bolt and nope wouldn’t budge. I checked the internals and racked it pointed straight and it was good. Pointed it downward again and same result, hammer bound on the lever.

Just installed my 2nd ASD ArcFire v2 with a precut G2S and lever blocker. Function test on Safety is good. On FRT it's also good. However in semi, the trigger pull is bad - 1 stage of takeup, then a tiny additional travel to a 2nd wall/click, and then a hard press to break/trigger fall. = fire at 3rd level/stage. There also is no trigger overtravel past the break.

Does the left leg need to be further cut/sanded, or does it sound like it's been cut too far?

Also, my first v2 (0-90-180) has a very tactile, and sharp clicky feel/sound compared to this one. This one is very muted when hitting each detent point. Are the 0-45-90s less clicky sounding and feeling than the 90-180s?

Hey everyone, i have two arc fires. Both from combat armory. This new one doesn’t seem to work, its impossible to get working unsuppressed. It works great suppressed though. I thought it was a gas issue but im getting this weird behavior where it will randomly go semi auto. Heres a youtube short of the issue. Any advice is appreciated!

https://youtube.com/shorts/7CZz5i0nNu4?is=bHoB6GyaR1MlNBjC

I am waiting for my super duty 11.5 to come in. I also ordered an arc fire v2 to throw into this. I know the super duty comes stock with the SSA-E X trigger. Right now I have a velos lbp, but plan to get a huxwrk for the SD. 1st question does anyone have experience cutting the SSA-E X trigger to work with the arc fire v2? Second question would you recommend the 556k or 556 Ti for the 11.5 SD? Lastly does anyone have a build similar to this, but also have an A5 buffer system and if so what do you use for your full build to get this to run smoothly, and keep the trigger light pull weights. Thanks!

There are a lot of options these days for SS/FRT but my question is which one would you trust in a duty or shtf scenario? I have several SS/FRT/kutbuto and they all work fine, but is there one that you would actually consider reliable enough to install in your duty rifle?

I typically dismiss the 4D chess arguments as far-fetched conspiracy theories, but given how our present ATF director is a friend of the 2A, I can't help but wonder if his endgame is to start selectively prohibiting FRTs in order to prompt lawsuits so that the courts have to rule not only that the FRT definition is arbitrary, but that machine guns are not dangerous and unusual because FRTs, while not machine guns under federal law, are capable of the same thing as machine guns so it's pointless to justify keeping machine guns banned in the name of public safety. Obviously that argument will fall on deaf ears for liberal judges but hopefully there will be some reasonable judges who take these cases.

Obviously Bare Greed Triggers doesn't care about such pursuits of liberty and merely cares about protecting their profits. I simply hope that our ATF Director is a better man.

Was recommended here by the folks at ar15

So i have a 20 inch rifle gas system. I have tried it with an a5 and carbine buffer system. I have tried the following weights:

A5:
A5h0
A5h2

Carbine:
H2
H1
H0
Odin works 6.2
Jo silent capture (h1)

Bcg:
Bootleg bcg with full gas
Kak full chrome downvent

It does the one and two shot with everything unless suppressed. It does everything just fine when it is suppressed, but fails completely with everything when unsuppressed. So it doesnt seem to be the buffer system, buffer weight, or bcg.

My only guess is something is wrong with the barrel? Its a criterion hbar, so it should be really good quality. Like i said, 0 issues with anything semi, regardless of suppressed or unsuppressed.

I only have failures in unsuppressed arc mode. What gives?

I'd like to buy an AR-15 lower for the purpose of a Super Safety. It's my understanding "low shelf" is the Goldilocks between high-shelf and M-16 cut. What are some good ones people use that just work without any fitment issues?

(I'm not affiliated with them or any vendor, in fact I'm a mod here, sharing this drop cause I know many folks have been wanting a true drop in 3 pos like myself)

Saw that the infamous Triggered Company (formerly known as Partisan) has dropped their AK three position cassette trigger. $400, has a good list of compatible models.

I ordered one, will report back how easy or hard it was to get running in my AK47 M70 once I get it.

One crucial thing to note that they say at the bottom:

We have stuck to the traditional Soviet manual of arms, whereby, the top position is safe, bottom position is standard semi auto and middle position is Assisted Reset (Enhanced Semi Auto).  This may mean that some receivers don’t have the middle dimple for the selector and the user will need to determine whether the ability of the selector to hold position is sufficient for their needs. Also, a few receivers have a tab at the bottom position that will need to be removed to allow true 3 position functionality.

That's a big deal for a lot of folks to pay attention to before you order. For me, my M70 is weird and has a dimple for the middle position but has a tab that prevents the selector from going to any bottom position, so presumably it'll mean I'll only be able to have safe and forced reset, not normal semi, unless I grind away at that tab. Other AK's I've seen instead allow you to have top and bottom position, but have no dimple for middle, but I've seen folks use a dremel to make one pretty easily. I really wish they would include which models this stuff applies to inline, since obviously they have tested them.