Finally picked this project back up after a major set back. Do you guys think this hammer has enough kick behind it or do I need to make more springs?

This is a proof of concept for captive piston ammunition. Due to my inability to draw specialized casings, I had to get creative and make a new threaded case head. The holds the primer and allows for it to be loaded from the bottom. Since the piston has to go through the modified case head, I couldn't put the appropriate shoulder on it and instead opted for a large thin walled cavity in the piston. This is where an appropriate charge of extremely fast burning powder would be. During firing, the thin walls blow out and obturates to the inner case walls. I tested this with just a 209 primer - it was silent except for the firing pin dropping. The piston is jammed firmly into the case mouth with no sign of gas blowby. The bullet was jammed ~3" into the rifling. I look forward to finding the correct powder load for this and hopefully enough to get a bullet out of the bore completely.

This is on an approved Form 1.

Onde acho o kit de molas da AR-15 buffer spring, estou seguindo o guia do the gatalog para FGC 9 MK2 mas as molas estão com o link suspenso e algumas eu não acho, como faço para prosseguir?

Got it to be much quieter than the previous version.

I know you need a grinder and welder and files, but what type of welders will be good enough that’s still a beginner welder? And just a hand grinder will do? And if so what blades would y’all recommend, and with files should I just get a bunch of different sizes?

All feedback will is appreciated and also any tips cheers.

it seems the weld dot for the fixed firing pin had some bubbles, it broke off at the base on firing. should be a simple fix. I cut a replacement spring spacer/buffer out of some thick rubber mat, it worked quite well. next I just need a latch to stop the barrel rotating off when it shouldn't and some iron sights.

I'm new to building, is there some sort of guide or set of videos I can look at? I've looked pretty hard online and have only found a few vaguely helpful things. I'm well aware of what's needed and the laws surrounding it but how does anyone find out how to put together a parts kit? Thank you.

The main challenge in DIY a rifling button lies in evenly spacing 6 grooves around the

circumference and cutting them at a specific angle. This method combines a high-speed steel (HSS)

rod with a hexagonal indexing jig to ensure a 60° rotation each time. Combined with a sliding

angle grinder stand, it allows six grooves to be ground evenly.

A few weeks ago I posted a video talking through the precision setup of a Desktop CNC that I am testing to see how far it can be pushed in the gun-projects space. That process leads to a fantastic setup. However, while filming for the first 3 projects I have found 2 additional recommendations and one optional thing that make the setup even better! In case anyone is following along I wanted to get this update out ASAP as- order of operations being a pain- some of the recommendations need to happen pretty far upstream in the setup process if you want to do them. So hopefully I catch anyone about to follow along before they go and do the setup work and potentially have to redo parts of it.

If you have no idea what I'm talking about, I'll link to that earlier post down in the comments.

Let the shenanigans begin!

test firing went great, that was the first and only take. my temporary plastic spring spacer is no more, but the gun itself is fully intact. I also made and tested my first real bullet trap. the casing ejected, but ended up stovepipeing. not that that's an issue, since this is very much single shot. next and last step is to make a catch to prevent the barrel rotating out of it's groove once it's in place.

estoy buscando los planos u una guiá de como hacer la caja de mecanismos del AK47, lamentablemente no los encuentro por ningún lado, si alguien tiene algún plano u guiá me lo podría pasar?

Gracias!

It actually shoots really well! Probably thanks to the massive weight. Ha! But whatever, she's a chunky girl and I still love her.

Hello everyone, I recently got myself a Colt 1903 Pocket Hammerless Type 2 frame with the hopes of rebuilding it. However it’s starting to get a little pricy having to buy each individual piece. So I found a guy who is selling basically an entire lower parts kit, however it’s for a type 1 model. Are these parts mostly interchangeable?

Why does my Slamfire black pipe shotgun emit a flame about 1-1/2 seconds after discharge?

Absolutely insane, I want one.

What you guys think? Single or double action?

Did this last year on a VERR slantback, In my experience, I skipped the scratch-start box and waited for a unit with a foot pedal and HF start. Fir setup , I grabbed clamps and measuring tools from penn tool Co since they carry Mitutoyo and Starrett. MSC. is decent alternative.

So I’m rebuilding a Colt 1903 Hammerless in 32acp. So there’s nothing wrong with the round I just want more work to do and already have some guns in this caliber so I wanted to see what I can do with it. I was wondering what route would result in a punchier bullet so to speak. I could go with the tried and true necking down route and do something along the lines of the 22 flea, or another idea I had that’s super dumb is I could cut the case shot by like .2in so that I can shove a bigger and therefore heavier bullet in. Obviously the decreased case capacity would result in less powder being in the case but I imagine the extra 20-30 grains (average grain weight of 32acp is mid 60s), I was planning on using 32 s&w bullet mold which is 93 grains. Tbh not sure if either are good but they both seem fun.

Curious about the pps-43, thinking about doing a pps-43 build this kit says it comes with everything from bowman arms. Does anyone have any experience with this kit?

This is one of those odd things I really wanted for myself, but I couldn't find anything like what I was picturing, so I designed it. I 3d printed a prototype a while back, but the project stalled for a while until I could find a CNC shop to make it. So here's the finished, black anodized, CNC'd aluminum scope mount.