Have had the cold start rattle but it always went away. However, recently the clattering from the passenger side of the engine (between cover plate and passenger side of cylinder head) has increased and believe I just need to pull the trigger on a phaser upgrade, and timing kit.

I would use the latest gen phasers (intake and output, all 4). New Timing chain, rollers/guides/tubes, etc.

I used a long screwdriver to isolate location of the sound to the passenger front phaser, it’s difficult to tell besides “top end”, but anyone who has a different opinion on cause please watch, listen and weight in.

Any help would be great

Hello all! I have a 2016 3.5 Eco with 129k on her. For awhile now I’ve been experiencing a non rhythmic shudder at idle that is random. Sometimes it happens, sometimes not. It could happen upon startup as it idles down, or it could start to happen after the engine has been driven for a half an hour, or not at all. Sometimes it’s rougher than other times. The RPM gauge does NOT move with the shudder. It happens in park and in drive, so I don’t believe it is the torque converter. There are no codes either. I’ve replaced both plugs and coils, as well as cleaned out the intercooler(there was minimal oil in it). The only mod I’ve done to the engine is the catch can, which the shudder was occurring beforehand. I do know that I have an exhaust manifold leak from the drivers side. I can hear the chirp/squel under load, but there is no fuel smell at idle. I’ve checked the timing PIDS on FORScan and everything seems to be within spec. Is there anything that I’m missing? I’m stumped

Thought I’d share my experience with a few LED bulbs I’ve tried and have had good feedback on. The T3-4257 turn signal bulbs from Lasfit have been a game changer. They’re CANBUS-ready, and the difference in brightness compared to halogen bulbs is a no-brainer.

Since trying those, I’ve also picked up their license plate bulbs, headlights, and fog lights. So far, I’ve been happy with them.

It’s kinda like a scratching or chirping now. I’m thinking it could be the belt but tell me if this is something else. 18 2.7 ecoboost

I recently posted about my 2013 f150 ecoboost with the no crank no start issue I’ve been battling. Unfortunately I’ve tried everything (except buying a new truck) and I’m having no luck at all. Things I’ve done…
New starter
New battery
New ignition switch
Checked neutral safety switch
Checked and cleaned all grounds
Checked every fuse and relay
Check the passenger side kick panel.

I’m running out of ideas. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated.

Hell yall. For those of yall that have replaced yalls heads did yall have a shop do it (and if so what was the price), did yall rebuild them yourselves or just buy refurbished heads. Looking for prices yall spent total on it as well as where yall bought the parts/heads to do yourself. I Need somewhere reputable to purchase from. Thanks everyone.

Pic of my baby for attention

2013 F150 eco boost 4x4. Need recs for after market CarPlay install. Currently have a very small display which does not allow for map display or touch screen.

Cross post from ask mechanics

Thanks for any input!

Got a 23 XL PowerBoost that's about to turn 50K, and I'm starting to notice a pronounced rattle at idle that reminds me of a rain stick. Any guesses? Still drives fine, etc.

I want my truck just the slightest bit louder than stock. I dont think there's a reason to buy a full exhaust system. I'm not trying to hear that v6 rumble hahaha. I also dont want my truck to ever sound like some clapped out shitbox. You know the sound, every 16 year old's squatted f150...

Im not trying to get a V8 sound, that won't ever happen. Im just looking for it to sounds like its on when the engine is running!!

2017 f150 lariat 3.5 eco. 157k miles. New cam phasers, new valve covers and timing chain. Purchased the truck 3 weeks ago. Running fine, shifting fine, i don’t notice any issue or anything different prior to light. First came on when going into reverse and now warning comes on when starting and yellow wrench stays on dash.

EDIT: got home, now light is off dash and warning no longer comes on when starting.

Hey yall. I have a 2013 f150 with the 3.5 ecoboost. I’m having the infamous no crank no start issue. I’ve replaced the battery, starter and ignition switch with no luck. I get power to everything but it will not crank. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mainly just posting for conversation. '17 3.5 eb KR FX-4.

Need help finding where/what this end plugs into. This is after son swapped out alternator and can’t find where this went.

It naturally drops down close to where the steering joint is. And one similar hose with a green mark near the end.

Hello everyone,

I’m currently working on a Ford F250 that has an intermittent stalling issue.

- It seems to only do it when it’s fully warmed up

- does it when it’s idling (stopped at a red light, stop sign)

- does it sometimes when accelerating from a stop

- does it when switching from drive to reverse

- no check engine lights on and no DTC’s stored 😅

It’s been to a different garage where they replaced the spark plugs and the intake manifold gasket.

I’m suspecting;

- throttle body issue
- fuel pump
- maybe a vacuum leak

Just looking for some diag advice on where to start, and what to maybe look for. If any Ford techs out there have seen this problem please feel free to chime in lol

Thanks 🙏

anyone know what this hose is that is in the way of my cold air intake and preventing me from putting my box in

edit: for everyone saying the “budget” cold air intake, this is an injen which i’ve seen tons of people have

As the title states, my truck overheated and when I pulled over and opened the hood I noticed coolant leaking under the intake manifold. Has anyone experienced this before?