r/CookbookLovers • u/Icy_Conference_564 • 2h ago
Chef Austin Leslie (1934 - 2005)
This author holds a very special place in my heart. Though I grew up surrounded by cookbooks (my mother began collecting years before me), it wasn't until I graduated from college and moved to New Orleans that I was exposed to world-class chefs in person. This author was my first "kitchen crush" and I fell hard. I followed his cooking closely, and it informs my own to this day. I do miss him so.
Austin was one of the most beloved culinary figures in New Orleans, whose passing in 2005 in the wake of Hurricane Katrina was universally mourned. Born in 1934, he began working in high school at Portia's Fountain on Rampart Street under Chef Bill Turner where he learned to cook many of the dishes for which he would become famous.
In 1964, his Aunt Helen opened the legendary Chez Helene, and he went to work as the full-time chef. The restaurant's menu offered both haute creole dishes and down-home items with the former being positively compared to those of the classic grand restaurants such as Antoine's, Arnaud's, Brennan's and Commander's Palace. New Orleanians know their food and Austin became a major star in the local firmament from the modest neighborhood dining room. A number of his signature dishes remain untouchable in local memory including the transcendent Fried Chicken with Dill Pickle, Potato Salad and Stuffed Peppers. His Creole Bread Pudding with Vanilla Whiskey Sauce was the stuff of culinary dreams, while the Smothered Cabbage with Pig Tails, his Fried Chicken Livers and ethereal Mustard Greens should never be forgotten. In 1984, he published his first cookbook, Chez Helene: New Orleans House of Good Food, which has become highly collectable.
The North Robertson neighborhood where the restaurant was located gradually became unsafe, causing a drop in business. Though Austin, who had become the sole owner in 1975 when his aunt retired, moved the restaurant to the French Quarter, much of the charm of the original location was lost, and he eventually closed Chez Helene in 1995.
His subsequent endeavors included stints in Denmark, as well as a couple other restaurants in New Orleans, most notably Jacque-Imo's, all while continuing to burnish his reputation with ecstatic guests. In 2000, he published Austin Leslie's Creole-Soul: New Orleans' Cooking with a Soulful Twist.
In the wake of Hurricane Katrina, he was forced to take refuge in the attic of his home. He was rescued from the roof after two days in 98 degree heat and humidity, and evacuated briefly to Arkansas, then finally to Atlanta. Several days later, he was admitted to a hospital with a high fever, and died the following day from a heart attack at the age of 71.
Anyone who knew him will always remember his trademark captain's cap and great big smile, as well as the well-earned moniker of The Godfather of Fried Chicken.
Significant publications:
- Chez Helene: New Orleans House of Good Food (1984)
- Austin Leslie's Creole-Soul: New Orleans' Cooking with a Soulful Twist (2000)
For more thoughts on cookbooks and authors that deserve greater attention, check out my free Substack, Cookbook Chronicles' Culinary Archive. My window is the past 140 years, and I draw from my personal archive of 8,300+ titles. I’m sharing my experience in hopes of instigating an exchange of ideas. Subscribe for free and receive each weekly post delivered to your inbox.
- - Rick - Cookbook Chronicles
“Cookbooks feed your head”

