I am looking at build the A4T toolhead and it was pointed out that there is a v2 being developed. I can't find anything on the updates v2 brings. So I was wondering should I build v1 since it is released, should I build v2 and follow for any updates? How far along is v2? Is there any idea of when it will be released? Thank for all your help so far!

https://github.com/DW-Tas/A4Tv2

https://github.com/Armchair-Heavy-Industries/A4T

Bonus question. The configurator does not call out if it is v1 or v2. I assume v1 but I wanted to know if anyone know if that is correct?
https://a4t.dwtas.net/

I am planning to use my V0.2 as my main printer someday and I would need to print some models using 0.2 nozzle and some using 0.4 nozzle. I also can't really decide between Anthead toolhead and Dragonburner.

So, the idea is to have both with different nozzle sizes and change them manually when I need to, using the Stealthchanger mount (possibly CNC one). Sounds more fun than having one toolhead and unscrewing a nozzle every time, so the questions are:

1. Has anybody tried it?
   
2. Are there any downsides except potentially losing some build volume?
   
3. I assume I will need a way to calibrate toolheads, like sexbolt?

To be clear, I am not planning to put a full Stealthchanger system with docks and stuff on V0, just using the mount system to be able to quickly swap toolheads manually. The inactive toolhead will just be sitting on a shelf when not used, not on the dock.

Another way to solve this would be a double hotend toolhead like H2D has, or the INDX system, or the A4T-C hotend-changer, but those seem to be too advanced/pricey/not finished for me right now, so I would like to explore the Stealthchanger mount idea first

I purchased a used Voron listed for sale as "for parts or rebuild" for a good price. Everything seems to work, although I haven't printed on it and won't until I rebuild it similar to the Voron 2.4 I recently recommissioned after a 4 year hiatus with an A4T toolhead. The new printer has Chaotic Labs CNC joints V2, I believe. I'm noticing the A-B belts ride very high on the gantry idlers rubbing on the flanges. Also, the previous owner had all of the belts extremely tight. I adjusted my recommissioned Voron with the PF Makers belt tensioner. I cannot think of a way to change where the belts ride on the idlers, other than adjusting the BFI lower adjustment screws inwards. I could abandon the CNC joints and just print new ASA parts, or try to make these work. Thoughts and insights are appreciated

EDIT: The printer powers on, hotend and bed heat up, all movements work including QGL, bed mesh. Wiring definitely needs redone.

I will be using this end-stop with a bed mesh probe.

Im trying to decide between the Eddy or Klicky.

At first glance, the Klicky probe seems too simple so without much thought, it was an instant no, but I’m noticing a lot of serious 3D printing dudes use it, so maybe there is something to it…

While sifting through old Reddit threads and interrogating my favourite LLM models, I’ve read the Eddy probe has issues with thermal drift affecting the z-offset BUT by using one of the Mellow end-stop switches with the Eddy, completely solves this problem. Is this true?

What do you think?

Thanks your help and time reading and considering.

I need to mount a bigtreetech eddy duo to a rapid burner on one printer. Before I work on redesigning a mount i was wondering if anyone already has one that works?

Hi,

My V2.4 makes this weird faint noise that seems like someone is cracking wooden sticks in the distance.

It only makes it AFTER reaching the desired temps.

I'm guessing it has something to do with thermal expansion. That's why I ignored it for the first months, I thought the printer was just "getting accustomed" with the heat.

But a couple weeks ago the baseplate for my tap cracked (the belt holding part to be precise) AND it was a PIF part.

So now i'm worried.

The belts are tensioned to spec btw.

Any suggestions?

(tried to post a video but it seems I can't)

Hello everyone, I'm having an issue with my printer and I cannot seem to get longer prints to finish consistently. The hardware:

- Raspberry Pi 5.

- BTT Octopus board, configured as a USB-CAN bridge.

- Stealthburner with EBB SB2209 (RP2040) connected via the included CANbus cable to the Octopus board

All flashed to klipper v0.13.0-787 (they all had an older version from around a year ago, I updated just to troubleshoot).

Initially I was having either of these two error messages:

- TMC 'extruder' reports GSTAT: 00000001 reset=1(Reset)

- Klipper reports: SHUTDOWN

Lost communication with MCU 'toolhead_mcu'
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Printer is shutdownKlipper reports: SHUTDOWNLost communication with MCU 'toolhead_mcu'
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Printer is shutdown

After some reading online I figured I should ground the extruder motor to the EBB board, TBH I can't recall if it fixed the first error message or not, but it's been a while since I've seen it, in the last few prints I've only seen the second one. I've tried:

- Tugging all connectors while the heaters, fans and motors are powered on (stationary and in movement), but I haven't been able to reproduce the error.

- Unplugging all connections and redoing them.

- CAN resistors seem fine (measure 120 Ohms at each end, 60 when both ends are connected.

- Checked the extruder motor wiring.

- Nothing seems to be overheating.

- I've tried printing with the bed on and off, no changes.

Sometimes the error happens near the end, sometimes in the middle and even near the end of the print, I've printed a fixture to keep the CAN cable in place, etc. I'm at my wits ends troubleshooting this printer, I'd be grateful for any advice or troubleshooting you can give me. I can provide more details if needed. I've cycled the logs but this is the latest one (https://pastebin.com/8i6URy1b), I've trimmed down what I thought were unnecessary lines but I have the full file if needed.

Thanks in advance!

I’ve been running a Dragon UHF (with the UHF adapter) for quite a while and am intimately familiar with heat creep issues if you don’t have proper cooling. This machine is almost entirely ASA/ABS printing, occasionally PCTG or PC.

About a month ago I switched to AntHead from XoL to test it out before committing to it for a StealthChanger build and it seems like I’ve had nothing but heat creep issues since.

I’m running a Berserker VINDR 2510 hotend fan on it running almost 20k RPM, rated at about 5.8 CFM.

This fan was more than enough with the XoL, even at 55C chamber temps and 110C build plate temps.

Has anyone else run into this? Is there anything else I should be looking at? I’ve verified my thermistor readings and even switched thermistors. I even switched in a brand new backup Dragon hotend. I’ve done cold pulls, run cleaning filament through, changed nozzles to new clean ones. Cartographer is fully calibrated and repeatable.

It shows up for me under two conditions:

1. This is the primary condition, if I have a long, slow first layer I will see clogging before the end of it. Even with a plate temp at like 100C. By long, I’d say about 5+ minutes.
2. Similarly, a few hours into a print where it is slowed down for a while for overhangs, curled perimeters, or a large top surface.

Even on a multi-hour print if the speed stays upwards of at least 8mm^3/s or more it seems to be just fine. If it slows down for too long then I have issues.

Typical ASA settings: 260C first layer, 255C after. 20mm^3/s max flow rate, 80mm/s outer perimeters for quality, 105C bed temp.

Even lowering to 240C temp doesn’t seem to help, plus it requires lowering the max volumetric rate down to about 12mm^3/s or it start skipping.

Extruder: Sherpa Mini (with Fystec CNC parts)
Toolhead board: EBB36 gen2 (over CAN)
Nozzle: 0.4 (or 0.5) Undertaker all tungsten v6

ETA: Part cooling fan settings.
- Off for the first 5 layers
- Max 25% under 30s layer, also slow down for short layers
- Bridges 80%
- Overhangs vary up to 60% and slow down
- Fans are not set to always be on, they will turn off. They will blip high briefly to prevent stall when turning on.
- The hotend has the silicone sock on it and I’ve checked the parts fan ducts to make sure they’re not aimed directly at the nozzle over cooling it.

UPDATE:
After a good idea to remove the front grill, things seem to be going better. No hotend clogs, long first layer with 110C build plate and 55C chamber.

The changes I made:
- Completely removed the center grill section
- Speed up first layer infill to 40mm/s from 20mm/s to get done with the first layer faster
- Double checked clean wiring and airflow out the back when reassembling the hotend, I don’t think I really changed anything

UPDATE #2:
Still having heat creep, it just takes a bit longer.

- Completely tore the toolhead apart and actually turned the hotend "sideways" so that the heater cartridge wires come off the side, through the back and totally opened up the airflow pathway.
- Tested with multiple different colors/brands of ASA

- Tested with nozzle temps of 260 and 250C, bed temps of 110, 105, and 100C

- Chamber temps between 52 - 55C. If I can keep the chamber temp right around 48-50C it seems to be better, but then I'm fighting warping

- At 53C chamber temp, 105C bed, and 250C hotend temp it takes about 15 minutes until creep kicks in.

Im curious about costs after buying and building the printer! Are they sufficient as standard?

Cheap PLA bought years ago, would jam in my Dragon or Rapido. Calipers show it as 1.9mm on occasion. Ender 3 Microswiss all metal hotend runs it like a champ. Glad I put Klipper on the Ender 3 instead of tossing it

I finally pulled the trigger on an LDO Voron Trident 300mm cube kit from West3D and decided I wanted to make it a 350mm bed with 300mm height. However, I don't know what all I need and would like some assistance. Is there anything else I need?

Here's what I've ordered so far:

LDO Voron Trident R2 (Rev D+) 300mm Cube kit with Raspberry Pi, Revo hotend, Leviathan board, and a touchscreen

XYZ microswitches and a Beacon kit

350mm frame kit

350mm clicky-Clack door

LDO Trident aluminum build plate kit (heater, magnet, and fuse pre-applied)

Printed parts - full kit.

I am aware this is not the best way to go about this, but hey, I'll have spare parts, and I like tinkering. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: Clarifying, it is a 350mm bed with 300mm height

Hello Community!

I'm running a Voron 2.4 with a toolchanger and I'm currently trying to optimize my nozzle cleaning routine during tool changes. I'd be interested to know which cleaning methods you use, how your cleaning sequences are set up, and which settings have worked best for you.

Unfortunately, I'm having quite a few issues with blobs, especially during longer prints with PA (nylon) or TPU. These blobs eventually detach from the nozzle and stick to the printed part.

My current nozzle cleaning sequence looks like this:

1. Spring steel plate: Any filament oozing from the nozzle is first caught by a spring steel plate.
2. Roller wiper: The nozzle is then moved across a roller wiper to remove any remaining filament.
3. Purging: A small amount of filament is extruded to purge the nozzle.
4. Brush: Finally, the nozzle is cleaned with a brush located near the build plate.

Despite these four steps, I'm still not completely satisfied with the results.

I'd really like to know:

• How have you set up nozzle cleaning on your toolchangers?
• Do you clean the nozzle at full printing temperature, or do you let it cool down slightly first?
• How many passes do you make over the brush, and at what speed?
• What experiences have you had specifically with PA and TPU?
• Do you have any tips for reliably preventing blobs from forming and sticking to printed parts?

I'd really appreciate hearing about your experiences, cleaning routines, and any suggestions for improvement!

Thanks in advance!

When it comes to mounting the bed, I’d really appreciate the hive mind’s sum-experience.

I’ve read the instructions, but the manual doesn't say much on the subject besides the obvious… It shows the obvious way to mount the bed using four screws and t-nuts, through the included spacers that came with the bed kit. It says to leave one screw a little bit loose to account for thermal expansion… That’s all well and good but I’m really wondering how to tram the bed flat once it's installed. I imagine that even if the mount is done really well, that the bed wouldn't be perfectly in-tram with the gantry, and therefore will need minor adjustmemts. This is my first printer that doesn't have leveling knobs to tram the bed flat so this is sort of mysterious to me.

That’s why I’m bringing up this so-called “Kinematic Bed Mounting Kit” for the Voron 2.4 (pictures includes). Not sure what this is, but looks like it serves the purpose of the tramming knobs to level the bed with the gantry.

Has anyone used these? If anyone can share your experience with the way this all works for a voron 2.4 I’d really appreciate it. Otherwise, is there an open source solution out there that people use for this? I can’t be the first person to wonder this so I’m sure I just need to be pointed in the right direction.

Otherwise, I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. Today I received my 305mm² x 8mm bed kit that’s supposedly machined flat to a tolerance of 0.01mm. I don’t have any way to verify this but it looks good! Now I’m waiting for receive my BTT Octopus Max EZ v1.0 board with 8x EZ2209 drivers and 2GB Raspberry Pi 4B. Pretty psyched.

For my toolhead I’m modifying the KevinAKASam Frankenstein system with his belt-driven Papilio extruder to feed a Phaetus Dragon hotend. I’m working on a slight mod for the Frankenstein base plate and SB gantry carriage to mount onto the gantry. My toolhead will be controlled using Mellow SHT36 via CAN bus.

The main jobs remaining for me are to mount the bed, figure out the panels, and wire everything…. Oh yeah, and the skirts, I have them mostly printed! Pretty psyched with the way this is all turning out!

I guess I’ll stop ranting now because I doubt anyone will read beyond the first few lines. For anyone that took the time to hear me out, thanks for your time and patience. I appreciate you! For anyone has any advice, please share!

I have a relatively well-tuned Voron 2.4 250mm with Stealthburner (Filamatrix mod). Planning to put a lane-based multimaterial at some point. ABS and PLA are my most printed materials, followed closely by PETG. Nothing fancy, nothing crazy.

I am mostly happy, but I want to tinker a bit and I was considering the A4T. I am looking for a solid toolhead but my comfort zone is not huge; I am looking at a somewhat popular well-documented option (not necessarily "the best for XX" but "good enough for XX, YY and ZZ").

My question is: even after deciding on the A4T (is it a bad idea? it seems good enough), now I have decision paralysis. I enjoyed using the Galileo2, and I see that it is an option for A4T, but there are multiple mounts, orbiter, etc. And, by default, the A4T configurator shows double sensor options only for the WW-BMG option.

The idea of having a double-sensor WW-G2 with crossbow cutter on the A4T seems appealing, but I don't know how difficult / "non-vanilla" is that. Otherwise, is WW-BMG good enough? Why/why not?

Hey

Im currently building a Voron Trodent and ran into a thermal runaway issue with my current printer (Elegoo Centauri Carbon) where the hot end mosfet failed. Luckily i happened right after a hotend swap so I was there to turn off the machine but it got me worried about my yet to be finished voron.

I wanted to instal something that would physically disconnect power to the printer with a signal. Then just set klipper to signal when it detects something dangerous. Then I could manually reset the trigger when needed, after addressing any issues. I was thinking a gfci/ circut breaker like effect. I like having to manually reset the breaker after its triggered but i also don't want to have to break into the ebay every time I turn on the printer.

my google searches haven't turned up anything, but is very possible that I dont know the proper term, or what i want dosnt really exist. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi Voron folks!

I'm a physics student in Düsseldorf, Germany, working on a university project: mapping the magnetic field of a heavy electron spectrometer magnet. The idea is to put a small Hall sensor on a rod attached to the toolhead and step it through the magnet, measuring at each point. A fixed-bed flying-gantry machine is exactly what I need, because the magnet is far too heavy to sit on a moving bed.

What I need:

• Fixed bed, build volume big enough for a 200 × 175 × 160 mm magnet plus a bit of room (so roughly 300 mm class or bigger)
• Working motion system (motors, mainboard, endstops, ideally Klipper). The hotend/extruder can be dead, I don't care about printing at all.
• Budget is pretty tight since it's for a university project, well under the price of a new SV08.

Two questions:

1. Is anyone selling a used Voron 2.4, Trident-turned-2.4, SV08 or similar? Ideally in Germany/EU, pickup in NRW is possible.
2. If not, are there other fixed-bed designs or donor machines you'd recommend for this kind of use?

Thanks a lot! Happy to share pictures of the setup once it's running, it's a pretty fun non-printing use for a Voron

I'm in the process of putting together a 2.4 kit from fysetc, and looking ahead I'm not seeing any clear instructions on their canbus. Are these things pretty universal or is there a specific guide for their SB Can v2? I'm kinda stumbling along with their piss poor instructions, any help would be appreciated.

I’ve just released V3 of the FT EMS Cable Duct for those using the Fizzy’s Tech EMS frame.

The goal with this version was pretty simple: make cable management cleaner and easier without adding unnecessary hardware.

V3 uses a snap-on lid design, so there’s no need for heat-set inserts, screws or additional hardware. The ducts simply attach to the FT EMS frame and provide a clean way to route and organise your wiring.

A few key features:

• 🧩 Snap-on lid design
• 🚫 No heat-set inserts or screw required for the lid
• 🧹 Cleaner and more organised cable routing
• 🖨️ Designed specifically around the FT EMS frame
• 🔄 Easy access when you need to make changes or work on your wiring

This has gone through a few iterations to get the fit and usability where I wanted it, so hopefully it makes building and maintaining your printer a little easier.

Model:
https://www.printables.com/model/1866361-ft-ems-cable-duct-v3

As always, feedback is welcome. If you’re using the FT EMS and have ideas for improvements or other mounts/accessories you'd like to see, let me know! 🙂

I was heating the chamber on my trident and suddenly lost all communication. All restarts led back to no communication with EBBcan. No lights on the board when powered up (measured 24v in at board). Pulled it off and it looks burn. Is this board cooked? What happened here?

Hello folks, I've been considering getting a voron for a while, but they dont sell em around where I live, and getting them 90% of the times absolutely gut-punches your wallet (more so than normally).

However, i think right now might be a day to try to get one. Turns out theres this black-friday-esque event going on my country, today being its final day, and aliexpress recognizes it too. I checked em voron kits (unfortunately no formbot which could run me cheaper), but a siboor 300³ kit (no printed parts) runs me about 813 bucks+0.25 tax (normally they go for around 930-40 or so+tax; the discount deconstructed would be: 30 bucks for new ali account+58 bucks for buying an item over 450 bucks+30 bucks from a siboor event coupon)

My plan upon 'i want a voron' and 'getting a voron down here sucks' intersecting was waiting till 11.11, but this price seems solid too. Any idea if its worth the wait to see if they drop some bigger discounts or the price could end up actually being worse?

If im not mistaken the base ali discount will be bigger (some pictures from last year's 11.11 have the highest coupon at around 100 bucks), but im afraid of inflated prices and whatnot, so im considering pulling the trigger now.

Thanks in advance for any advice. Hope you all have a nice day.

The INDX is still unobtanium, so I took a look at people's personal hotend changer projects like the MedusaHC, YUDX, A4T-C, etc. However it seems like all of these don't have proper build guides since they're new and developed by a single passionate individual, and as such can't be sourced (get parts) easily.

Just asking if anyone knows of a project some dumbass like me could try a hand at implementing or if I should just do the mature and tested stealthchanger.

I recently developed a CAN HAT for raspberry Pi 4/5, because i couldnt find any that fit the specs i need. (I didn't want to use klipper in bridge mode)
So I designed this board with an SPI to can module and an can transciever.
Now i am wondering if anybody would buy this board, and if so, at what price.
The fan cutout is inspired by the ToqueCAN board.
Features:

• 12-24v Input (currently no fuse)
• 5A 5V output (powering the Raspi)
• One JST can header
• JST header for one 30mm fan.

If i were to sell these boards i would change some things, for example add reverse polarity protection (maybe a fuse for the 5V side) and change the input cap from a 0603 to 0805 too.
I want to clarify that i am not trying to sell these but to get an idea on weather or not someone would actually buy these boards

Hello!

I'm building my first Voron, a teident from a formbot kit, and I have completed the installation of the belts and the tap carriage.

I tried moving the carriage by hand to test the motion and I noticed that it requires quite a bit of force to move, is it normal?

I have cleaned and greased the linear rails (and those moved fine before the installation of the belts/carriage), the bearing stacks move freely.

I think I have routed the belts correctly and I have no reason to believe there is a problem, but having zero prior experience I have no idea if it's normal that such pressure/force is needed to move the carriage.

Maybe it just the motors that require some force to rotate, but I'd like to be extra sure no avoid grinding the belts or stressing the XY motors too much.

Thanks for the help!