AI render of Opel Calibra. What do you think about it, would you buy it or hard pass it?

Sound is from 3.5seconds to 7 idk if u can hear it its clicking noise than its fully warmed up and its only than its starting to realising clutch like in first gear or reverse on low speeds

Hey everyone!
I could really use some advice/experience regarding a project car I'm stuck with.

I bought a 2008 Opel Corsa D OPC about two years ago. Unfortunately, it turned out to have way more rust than expected (body shell, one door, tailgate, sills, and rear side panels are in pretty bad shape, unless someone welds in completely new metal). Sadly I simply lack the time, equipment and money to continue. I started a few times, but it never worked out.

Right now, the car is partially disassembled (bumpers, lights, interior trim, etc. are off) to start the repairs and to paint afterwards. The engine, wiring harness, and ECUs are still completely intact inside the car.

I'm currently figuring out how I am going to sell it and would love to hear your thoughts:

1. Is it worth fully parting it out (pulling the engine, wiring, etc.) and selling every single piece separately? Or is it way too much hassle for the money/time it takes?

2. Or should I just sell it as-is (partially disassembled as a donor car) and sell the loose parts alongside it?

Has anyone here done a full OPC partout before? It would not be a problem to get rid of the remaining shell, but is the extra effort actually worth the money?

Appreciate any insights or experiences!

Replaced door lock actuator on driver's side door. Now the door works electronically with remote but when using key to manually open the door it does not work. The key turns but the door does nothing. It will not unlock.

This door lock actuator is a one unit setup. The latch is on the actuator.

Any help or ideas would be great.

Opel agila B 2009

Hello! I'm currently thinking on changing cars and so far I've stopped on Opel Astra J (around 2010-2013-ish models). The only key requirements for me are for it have less than 200k km and for it to be petroleum engine and since the car would mostly be driven in urban conditions I think that the 1.4 would be more than enough for me. I really like how they look and what they offer, but I want to have some info about this particular model (if possible this engine) so any tips as to what to look for in them or what should I be cautions about with them would be greatly appreciated. Also if you've owned or still own one what do you think of it? Thank you a lot in advance!

Hello, i think my opel astra is leaking from the oil filter housing.....
I am not sure where exactly.. the mechanic recommended i change everything and he's charging around €480.00.. is that a lot?
He's asking like €210 for the part which is insane from what i see online.

I only see the part on it and there's no other gaskets like manifold, coolant hose...

Anyone has done this job? how long did it take?
If i do it myself.. what gaskets do i need?
I want to make sure before i dig in there.

Salve a tutti ho questa Opel meriva A cosmo del 2009 presa 1 anno fa a 2600 euro compreso tutto (voltura, tagliando, lavaggio e cambio batteria) ha un 1.4 90cv codice z14xep molto ottimo, online lo valutano come lento e pigro, ma io in autostrada ho tenuto i 130 kmh facilmente, consuma molto poco, da quando l'ho presa è bastato cambiarle i 4 ammortizzatori con i relativi supporti e parapolvere anteriori tutto della marca Monroe e anche le bielllette per farla rimanere più stabile e comoda, me l'hanno venduta con dei cerchi in lega fondmetal sigla 6500 f1 experience 4x100 a parer mio molto belli, l'ho gommata 4 stagioni trazano z401 misure 185 60 r15 88h xl con spalla rinforzata. Tutto sommato mi trovo bene con la mia auto, è sempre stato usato olio 5w 40 e la catena fatta 4 anni fa a 186 mila km, non so se è solo il mio esemplare o anche il vostro che mi sembra più di ciò che è, mi trovo molto bene, ho solo avuto una noia elettronica che non si apre più elettricamente il baule e non si accendono le luci nelle plafoniere anteriori e posteriori ma basterà un bravo elettrauto, ditemi la vostra...

Hi everyone. I have a 2009 Opel Meriva A Cosmo that I bought a year ago for €2,600—a price that included everything (transfer of ownership, service, cleaning, and a new battery). It has the 90 hp 1.4 engine (code Z14XEP), which is excellent; online reviews often call it slow and sluggish, but I’ve easily maintained 130 km/h on the highway, and fuel consumption is very low. Since buying it, the only work needed was replacing the four shock absorbers—along with the mounts and front dust covers (all Monroe brand)—and the sway bar links to improve stability and ride comfort. It came with Fondmetal alloy wheels (model 6500 F1 Experience, 4x100), which I think look great, and I fitted them with Trazano Z401 all-season tires (185/60 R15 88H XL with reinforced sidewalls). All in all, I’m very happy with the car; it has always run on 5W-40 oil, and the timing chain was replaced four years ago at 186,000 km. I don't know if it's just my specific unit or if yours feel the same way, but it feels like a much better car than its specs suggest. I’ve really enjoyed it, though I did run into one electrical glitch: the trunk no longer opens electronically, and the front and rear overhead lights don't turn on—but a good auto electrician should be able to sort that out. Let me know what you think...

So my key buttons and keyless entry (thumb thing on driver’s side door) don’t work . I am having to manually unlock the car from the passengers side door. Then the buttons will work. No issues with the push to start. The issue is only unlocking the car. It’s like the car forgets the key after about 30 minutes. Happens with both keys. Any ideas how to fix this.

2007 twintop. Z20ler engine. I have a horrible sound when the engines running. Iv pinpointed it to either the alternator or tensioner bearings. Does the whole tensioner need to be replaced or can I only replace the wheel of the tensioner. I want to start there.

Was thinking to get my first car but idk if opel is a good choice.

Hello everyone,
I could use some quick help. I can't find anything in the manual about the correct coolant for my car, and online I can't find any that matches the manufacturer's specification.
About 30,000 km ago the thermostat was replaced, and I now think I have a leak at the coolant flange on the right side of the engine block. C12+ was used to top it up.

My expansion tank is now empty, and I'm wondering exactly what I need to fill it with. I see G12, G12+ and possibly G13. The Manol website also gives me a green one, which confuses me.
I'd be grateful for help before I buy the wrong thing tomorrow!

Good morning, i have an Opel Corsa C with the 1.3 cdti with 70hp, the oil cooler broke and the water and the oil mixed. I fixed it but now it overheats to 100C. I tried cleaning the system but it still overheats. Is it the thermostat that i bought or what could it be?

I imagined a new Opel Manta but designed by Italians. I am tired of every car is looking similar trash on the market. I want to get back a emotional loaded look. I love it to be honest. *AI used to create the picture”

Hi all,

I have a Opel Karl model 2017 and unfortunately my battery has died for the second time after not using the car for like 2-3 weeks, after returning from holiday. I never had this issue with any other car and it is quite frustrating to be stuck at the airport with a broken car after landing... A battery tester shows its almost completely drained and probably needs a new battery AGAIN.

I suspect it has something to do with 'Onstar', seems to be a service that is discontinued. On the fuse schematics I found that fuse 1 of the Instrument pane fuse box is labeled as 'Onstar'. I'm wondering if I should just pull this fuse or if there is a better way to get rid of Onstar.

What I also can't find is if things like the mic will still work if that fuse is getting pulled. any ideas?

For some unknown reason, the brake light fuse in my Opel Corsa C (gasoline powered, model year 2003) keeps blowing. I don't know what's causing it. When I replace the blown fuse, it works again, but after a few days or weeks, it blows again. What could be the cause? The on-board computer isn't showing any error codes either.

Hi everyone,

​The interior bonnet release handle on my 2007 Opel Astra H 1.7 CDTI has gone completely soft/slack with no tension, and the hood won't pop open.

​The worst part is we just finished swapping the turbine (reconditioned turbocharger) and putting everything back together! Now a mechanic mentioned that reaching the bonnet latch from underneath requires removing/unclipping the lower intercooler boost hoses and splash shield again to clear line of sight up to the latch. After just installing the turbo, taking those hoses back off is the last thing we want to do! 🫠

​We tried reaching the latch through the front grille mesh with a flathead screwdriver, but the honeycomb slots are too narrow to get a proper angle on the release lever behind the central Opel emblem.

​Before we start pulling those newly fitted boost hoses off underneath again, does anyone have a proven trick or shortcut for popping the 2007 Astra H bonnet from the front?

​Is popping the top clips of the front grille forward from outside the best way without breaking the plastic?

​Has anyone made a specific wire tool / hook that slides through the grille honeycomb?

​Is there any other trick to trigger the latch behind the emblem directly?

​Any tips, tricks, or photos of the exact lever to push behind the emblem would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Cheers,

I recently switched from one radio to another and i really love it as it's visually more attractive. I didn't want to go with some aftermarket stuff as it's just ugly and no point of it.

I just need to get aux/bluetooth done, any ideas ? Aux option is there but it does nothing.