I had an awesome garage find and got this never used RBC manifold for 150$ but am very tempted to shave off the engine cover and injector ground threads. The only issue is I want to keep it unpainted and have the original texture so I’m wondering if there are any good easy solutions to blending the cut sections in before I risk ruining this thing

what’s going on guys? I just recently picked up a Built K24 off of FB marketplace but I’ve got one issue with it. The bell housing threads are destroyed for some reason. How would I go about preparing them and still being able to use original bell housing bolts I don’t wanna go through the headache of upsizing or anything like that what kit do you guys recommend?

Hey, everybody, here is my contraption a K24a2 stuffed into a 2002 Ford Ranger. it has been running great for a long time until recently. When I put a fuel pressure regulator into it that wasn’t the original Ranger one. When I put it in, it dropped the fuel pressure from 65-70 two around 43 1/2 which is what is nominal fuel pressure for the injectors I have (ID1050X). whenever I start it, it runs like it’s running on two cylinders and liens completely out. It was not terrible for a little while and then it slowly just has gotten worse and worse. I’m not sure what to do at this point. Any ideas or pointers is well received

2006 Accord stock k24a8 5 speed
Master cylinder busted & I refuse to pay $500 for the new assembly from Honda.
I can pull a part from the junkyard, is there anything from a TL or RSX that I can take?
I’ve heard Luk, Exedy or Sachs for AFM brands
As for the bypass valve can someone explain their experience with one on a daily? I haven’t looked into it yet but if it’s a race car thing don’t mind.
Anything else I should know about replacement is appreciated 🙏 Im no mechanic, anything helps.
Also managed to get the broken one out, I know the reinstall is gonna SUUUCCCCCKKKKK
Update: im considering K-tuned upgrade, or exody oem replacement. Has anyone deleted the CDV on a stock accord? If so how’s it feel?

PLM Headers with the added 200 cell cat

Vibrant ultra quiet resonator

Vibrant streetpower oval muffler

The entire diameter is 2.5 inches

This is the setup that I am highly considering for my K24 swapped RSX and was wondering about its overall sound and volume. The videos that I see do not give me much on the real world and I can't seem to find much online. The type of setup I am hoping for is a moderately tame sound at idle, cruising, and cold starts to not annoy the neighbors but still a screamer at high RPM. If you believe this is not what I'm looking for, I'm open to recommendations.

Ok, fun times, don't rip me too hard, Reddit.

I have an 08 Accord with a very tired K24Z3, and I bought a Z2 with super low mileage to do a fast rebuild and swap. My fault, I'm aware, but I didn't realize that the "new" block wasn't a direct match and it's too late to do anything about it.

My question is - since the Z3 is a PZEV head, is it as easy as swapping the head assemblies between the two to keep my car from throwing codes when it's installed and running?

Hello, I have a 2003 Acura RSX type s that I am K24a2 swapping from a 2007 Acura TSX. I have no exhaust at all, and I am starting from scratch. I do not have the stock exhaust. I want an exhaust setup that is just as quiet as stock but flows well enough to get some power gain with a tune. I'm not looking for crazy power 200-210 whp would be plenty. I'm keeping the engine stock besides the exhaust and maybe an intake? I would rather have an air box for the swap with a proper filter, but I am having trouble figuring it out with the swap. I will be daily driving this car, and I leave the house at night. The HOA is listening...... I would rather not have to do some crazy fab work if possible. Thank you for your help. I do have Hondata ECU

Is my 6th gear spacer on my nrh3 supposed to be free spinning after torquing and pressing all the gears? Thanks!!

Just picked this up. Supposedly it’s the Jdm k24A. I plan on engine swapping my sand rail dune buggy!

I currently have a k20a3 in my honda civic type s ep3 and i want to k24 swap in the future but i feel like im gonna struggle on doing the wiring. How does it all work? Like i know i probably need a new ecu but how will i get it all working?

Literal seconds of RnD went into this build. All the awesomeness of the K-series now with a lower center of gravity. Subie boys got nothin now

Could someone tell me some problems that they’re having when they do a engine swap so I know what to look out for if I have them

I have a 2002 K20a2 mated to a X2M5 in a W2M5 case swapped into my car. A weird one I know, and I wanted to ask about the starter. I have verified that the flywheel is the correct part number for this car and it's been installed properly, the starter is the correct part number, brand new, and is getting proper power and ground. Despite this it still won't engage with the flywheel. I can hear it actuate and it makes a rapid and loud series of hollow thunks, it sounds like it's actually hitting the side of the flywheel and not engaging, and I don't know what could possibly be wrong with it because from what I've heard, it's basically impossible to install the starter incorrectly as long as the orientation is correct and it's torqued properly. So I guess I have 2 questions, 1. is it somehow possible to install the starter to where it won't engage correctly, and 2. Is it even a possibility that the 5 speed bell housing would change the starter I need to use even though the starter bolts to the block?

Recently got my DC5 back on the road and crested 200k miles last week. I started up the car this morning and it sounds like a Subaru and misfires under load. Seems like the chain is finally headed out, but luckily no damage.

Problem is, I want an OEM K24 tensioner and to replace the VTC actuator, but a timing kit alone is $600!

I am going turbo so I might be shit out luck, but curious if anyone has proven their cheap timing chain/guides work fine? Im shooting for 300whp eventually.

Welcome suggestions and criticism. Thanks

i recently k24a swapped my 2003 honda accord, with k tuner being my only option to getting the car running. I had ordered a K tuner ecu. When received i plugged it in and nothing happened, sent it back for warranty and HAmotorsport said the ecu was fine and there was nothing wrong with it on a bench test, they opted to send me a new one, upon receiving the new ecu , plugged it in and yet again nothing, i back probed all the wires ha motorsport mentions in their troubleshooting guides, everything was what it needed to be, nothing was off, still no power to ecu, still no main relay click, still no fuel pump prime, so i jump the e7 harness pin, and one relay switches but still no fuel prime or ecu power. pulled ecu fuse and it was not blown, removed it and put a new 15a fuse in place of the old, still nothing . i’m
lost and running in circles, what could i do to fix this?

Edit: failed to mention, stock 03 ecu works fine, primes fuel pump, has power, everything works. k tuner ecu will not work.

I have a k24 JDM engine, when i start the car it starts leaking from somewhere in the exhaust side, I first thought it was the oil pressure sensor so I changed it and put it back with the sealant that was recommended to me by a mechanic, it still leaked so I changed the VTEC solenoid gasket but nothing so I changed the whole VTEC solenoid with gasket included but nothing still, idk where else could I leak from but I know it’s kinda high because I’ve seen it drip from the oil filter and drip into the passenger axle and subframe that gets soaked with oil after leaving the car on for a while

Swapping my first gen crv with a k24A ive got the majority of the things I need but im curious about ECU. Im running a 5 speed accord transmission and im not sure what ecu to get since I wanna do cable throttle instead of drive by wire. What options do I have?

What can this chatter be? Stock k24a2, with new timing chain, new online pro tensioner, and new oem guides. Installed new Drag Cartel 40 degree VTC. Running Link G4x ecu, no codes thrown, no knock detected. Cam advance is hitting target.

Edit: unplugged VTC solenoid and removed serpentine belt. Chatter persists.

Solved! Timing chain tensioner was loose! Had to re-toques the bolts

Hello all the k series pros! I am a k series noob doing all this for my first time.

I have a 2005 Honda accord 2.4 with the k24a4 engine.

Just got done doing the head gasket and I’m trying to install the cams onto the rocker arm assembly, but finding it hard to set the cams in place.

I currently have the crank at TDC and when I try to place the cams in TDC they plop out of place when tightening down the cam holders/brackets by hand.

I posted this very question on drive accord and got two responses.

Commenter A said
“When you tighten the cam girdles, it compresses the valve springs on some of the cylinders. If the cam isn't perfectly centered, the uneven force from the valve springs will rotate the cam to a more balanced position.

If the manual doesn't say to lock the cams in place, I wouldn't worry about it. The spring tension will naturally move the cam to a position where the valves are mostly closed, so valve-piston contact shouldn't be an issue. Just make sure the crank still moves freely after every torque step to make sure the valves and pistons aren't touching. Once everything is tight you can use a strap wrench or something to move the cam back to TDC position.”

Commenter B said
“I recently installed a new timing belt on my 2008 Honda Accord V6. I had removed the key from the crank harmonic balancer. When lining up the cams and crank we remembered that. Well the cams were lined up but the crank wasn't. It was at about 3/4s from tdc. We put the key in and rotated it to tdc . No problems at all. Car runs smoothly and strong.”

It seems there are two ways of installing them.

I’m kinda leaning towards the Commenter B option because it seems like the safer option.

My understanding is I would:

1. set the crankshaft at 3/4 (90° before TDC)

2.install the cams TDC and torque the holders
down.

1. set the crank to TDC

4.Timing chain

But, I just want to know if this is a common procedure to install cams and if anyone else has experience to chime in on this so I can get this engine one step closer to being done. Any help is appreciated!